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Gemstone Grading Information - How to select the best Gem - AwesomeGems.com - Blue Sapphire Ceylon Sapphire Burma Ruby Ceylon Rubies Colombian Emerald African Emerald Russian Alexandrite Brazilian Alexandrite Star Sapphire Star Ruby Paraiba Tourmaline Tanzanite Imperial Topaz Indicolite Santa Maria Aquamarine Padparadscha Collector Gems

Click here to see natural Colombian Emeralds African Emeralds and Brazilian Emeralds

Click here to see Burma Rubies Untreated natural Mogok Ruby and Fine Ceylon Ruby

Click here to see Fine untreated Blue Ceylon Sapphires and other Fancy Saffire

Click here to see Fine natural Ceylon Star Rubies and Burma Star Ruby

Click here to see Russian Alexandrite and other Rare Collectable Gems, many are  GIA or AGL certified.  Our other stock includes amethyst andalusite aquamarine beryl cats eye chrysoberyl citrine diamonds garnet indicolite iolite kunzite morganite peridot rhodolite rubellite saffire star saphire tanzanite topaz tourmaline and zircon

Emeralds

Rubies

Sapphires

Stars

& More


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Gem Information Index
You will never find a synthetic gem in our Gemstone selections,
We mainly feature Genuine, Natural, Untreated Precious Gemstones
 Price per carat usually reflects the evenness of the color, the clarity, and the brightness of the stone


Click on the underlined item of your choice to view selections available
COLOR GRADES
TREATMENTS
CLARITY GRADES
GEM CUTS
GEM LABORATORIES
GEM HARDNESS
BIRTHSTONES

 

ANNIVERSARY GEMS
 
 
 
DIAMOND
 SAPPHIRE - BLUE

AMETHYST

ALEXANDRITE
SAPPHIRE - GOLDEN
CITRINE
AQUAMARINE
SAPPHIRE - ORANGE
GARNET
CHRYSOBERYL
SAPPHIRE - PADPARADSCHA
IOLITE
EMERALD
SAPPHIRE - PINK
KUNZITE
RUBY
SAPPHIRE - PURPLE
MORGANITE
 STAR RUBY
SAPPHIRE - WHITE
 PERIDOT

STAR SAPPHIRE

SAPPHIRE - YELLOW

SPINEL

TANZANITE

SAPPHIRE - COLOR CHANGE

TOPAZ

TOURMALINE

 

ZIRCON

 

VIEW OUR GEM STOCK

 


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Gem Report Laboratories
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We can supply Gemological Laboratory Certificates and/or Appraisals on any gem, if requested.
Many of our more expensive Gems have a Gem Identification Reports listed online.
We use fully accredited Gemological Laboratories able to perform
 Gemstone Identification, Diamond Grading, and Appraisals of Gems and Jewelry.
Many of our Gem Identification Reports are based on the GIA 
(Gemological Institute of America) "Color Stone Grading System".
The following links are to reputable Gem Laboratories and Appraisers (in Alphabetical order).  
Prices for gem reports may range from $100 to $1,000, depending on how much detail you want on the report. 
AGA | AGL | AGS | AGTA | EGL | GIA | GRS | GUBELIN | GUILD | IGI | LPSL | SSEF

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  • GIA COLOR GRADES
  • The GIA type Color Scale:
    The 3 charts below are based on the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) "Color Stone Grading System", where the Color with it's various Hues, the Tone, and the Saturation of color in a particular gem is listed.
    You will normally see this system identified by a letter or set of letters, followed by two numbers. The letters are abbreviations of the Color and Hues visible... the first number is the Tone or lightness/darkness of a particular gemstone... and the second number in sequence is the Saturation of color in the gem.  So, as an example, when you see a Ruby given the color "R", this would indicate the color is "Red" meaning the primary color is Red and there appears to be no noticeable secondary color... if the tone/saturation numbers were listed as "6/5"... this would indicate the gem has "Medium-dark" tone and "Strong" saturation of color... making this particular gem fall in the "good" category.
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    GIA Type COLOR SCALE
    Abbreviation
    HUE
    Abbreviation
    HUE
    P
    Purple
    styG
    strongly yellowish-Green
    rP
    reddish-Purple
    yG
    yellowish-Green
    RP/PR
    Red-Purple or Purple-Red
    slyG
    slightly yellowish-Green
    stpR
    strongly purplish-Red
    G
    Green
    slpR
    slightly purplish-Red
    vslbG
    very slightly bluish-Green
    R
    Red
    vstbG
    very strongly bluish-Green
    oR
    orangy Red
    GB/BG
    Green-Blue or Blue-Green
    RO/OR
    Red-Orange or Orange-Red
    vstgB
    very strongly greenish-Blue
    rO
    reddish-Orange
    gB
    greenish-Blue
    O
    Orange
    vslgB
    very slightly greenish-Blue
    yO
    yellowish-Orange
    B
    Blue
    oY
    orangy-Yellow
    vB
    violetish Blue
    Y
    Yellow
    bV
    bluish Violet
    gY
    greenish-Yellow
    V
    Violet
    YG/GY
    Yellow-Green or Green-Yellow
    bP
    bluish Purple

    The Tone and Saturation Scale:
    Is based on a determination of the lightness or darkness of a particular gemstone.
    Tone should be considered along with the Color to properly understand the depth of color in the gem.  Even though it may have good primary color, if it's too light in tone, it will not be rich enough... or... if the color is too dark, it will sacrifice brilliancy and transparency.
    Saturation should be considered along with the Color and Tone to properly understand the amount and evenness of the color that is saturated throughout the gem.
     

    GIA Type TONE SCALE
    0
    1
    2
    3
    4
    Colorless or White
    Extremely Light
    Very Light
    Light
    Medium-Light
    5
    6
    7
    8
    9
    Medium
    Medium-Dark
    Dark
    Very Dark
    Extremely Dark
    GIA Type SATURATION SCALE
    1
    2
    3
    4
    5
    6
    Brownish or Grayish
    slightly Brownish or slightly Grayish
    very slightly Brownish or very slightly Grayish
    Moderately Strong
    Strong
    Vivid

    Understanding the GIA type Colored Stone Grading System :
    Here's how a gemologist evaluates a gemstone's hue, tone, and saturation, using the GIA type colored stone grading system :

    The stone is first identified as to gem type.  After being thoroughly cleaned, the stone is held by its girdle over a neutrally colored background, and the gemologist looks at it face-up from a comfortable distance – usually about 18 in. (45 cm) – in strong, diffused, daylight-equivalent lighting, with the light source somewhere around 10 in. (25 cm) above the stone. The stone is then rocked back and forth up to a total of 30 degrees as the tone, hue, and saturation judgments are made.

    The following examples will help you understand the process involved in how a gem’s color is determined.  Let's first look at the illustration to the right.  This example tone chart starts with #2 very light, and goes to #8 very dark, as the tone examples. The gem’s tone is determined first, and in this example it is determined that the tone is #5 medium.

    Next, the gemologist estimates the overall hue.  Look at the illustration to the left to see which hue compares best to the examples on the hue wheel. The sample stone is green, with a touch of blue, so the gem is very slightly bluish green. The hue shows up as bright flashes of brilliance when you look at the stone in the face-up position. In a stone with a window that occupies over 50 percent of the face-up area, the gemologist also grades the window as the dominant color and then the brilliance as the additional color.

    Lastly, the gemologist estimates the saturation level.  Look at the illustration to the right.  Saturation is how much color the gem has. If it does not appear to be grayish or brownish at all, it has strong to vivid saturation.  Saturation is also where any additional colors such as those due to color change, pleochroism, color zoning, and windowing less than 50% are noted.  Saturation has a moderate to strong effect on appearance. Additional colors, like a window as noted above, are graded only if they are moderate to strong.

    The sample stone is thereby graded very slightly bluish green (vslbG), medium tone (5), vivid saturation (6).


    The COLORLESS GEM Color Scale:
    .
    The chart below is based on the Diamond Color Grading System.
    COLOR GRADING of Diamonds arbitrarily begins with "D".       "A", "B", and "C" are assumed to not exist.
     
    COLORLESS GEM GRADING SCALES
    COLOR GIA* CIBJO*
    COLORLESS D EXCEPTIONAL WHITE+
    E EXCEPTIONAL WHITE
    F RARE WHITE+
    NEAR COLORLESS G RARE WHITE
    H WHITE
    I VERY SLIGHTLY TINTED WHITE
    J SLIGHTLY TINTED WHITE
    FAINT YELLOW
    to
    FAINT BROWN
    K TINTED WHITE
    L
    M  TINTED COLOR 1
    VERY LIGHT YELLOW
    to
    VERY LIGHT BROWN
    N TINTED COLOR 2
    O
    P
    Q
    R
    LIGHT YELLOW
    to
    LIGHT BROWN
    S TINTED COLOR 3
    T
    U
    V
    W
    X
    Y
    Z
    CHAMPAGNE 
    CONAC
    GREENISH
    BROWNISH
    C+
    FANCY COLOR
    YELLOWISH
    PINKISH
    BLUISH
    LIGHT FANCY
    YELLOW 
    GREEN
    BLUE
    PURPLE
    PINK
    RED
    FANCY
    FANCY INTENSE
    VIVID
    * GIA = Gemological Institute of America. 
    * CIBJO = Confederation Internationale de la Bijouterie, Joaillsrie, Ortevrerie, des diamants, perles et pierres precieuses.

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  • GIA CLARITY GRADES
  • The GIA type Clarity Scale:
    The GIA Color Gem System is divided into Three Gem Types...  "Type I", "Type II", and "Type III"
    All natural gems have inclusions... In plain terms clarity is simply how much "stuff " is inside the gem crystal. The less the "stuff " the more they cost.  This again because of rarity by lack of imperfection.
    Below is a more descriptive explanation of these Clarity Grades for the 3 Gem Types:
    .
    Type I - CLARITY SCALE
    Exceptional
    Very Good
    Good
    Fair
    Poor
    VVS
    VS
    SI
    I1... I2
    I3
    Very Very Slightly Included
    Very Slightly Included
    Slightly Included
    Included
    Excessively Included
    Type I Gemstones : Type I stones are usually eye-clean with no inclusions visible to the unaided eye. The stones in this type are usually of such high clarity that even minor inclusions can detract from their desirability.

    The list includes Aquamarine, Beryl (green, pink & yellow), Citrine, Chrysoberyl (except Alexandrite), Kunzite, Morganite, Spodumene, Tanzanite, Topaz (colorless & blue), Tourmaline (green), Zircon (blue & colorless), and Zoisite

     

    Type II Gemstones : Type II stones typically show some eye-visible inclusions that do not detract from the gem’s overall beauty. Many stones with inclusions visible to the unaided eye are faceted for use in jewelry.

    The list includes Alexandrite, Amethyst, Andalusite, Apatite, Citrine, Diopside, Feldspar, Garnet (all colors), Iolite, Opal (Fire), Peridot,  Quartz (all colors), Ruby, Sapphire (all colors), Spinel (all colors), Topaz (all colors except blue), Tourmaline (all colors except green & watermelon), and Zircon (all colors except colorless & blue)

    Type III Gemstones : Type III stones are almost always included and show eye-visible inclusions, but even specimens with obvious or prominent inclusions are often faceted for use in jewelry.

    The list includes Emerald, Beryl (red), and Tourmaline (watermelon)

    Month

    Color

    Modern Traditional Alternate
    January Brick Red Garnet Garnet Rose Quartz
    February Purple Amethyst Amethyst Black Onyx
    Moonstone
    March Seafoam Blue Aquamarine Bloodstone Rock Crystal
    April Colorless Diamond Diamond White Sapphire
    White Topaz
    May Green Emerald Emerald Green Tourmaline
    Tsavorite Garnet
    June White Pearl
    Moonstone
    Alexandrite Opal
    July Red Ruby  Ruby  Rubellite Tourmaline
    August Yellowish-Green Peridot Jade Star Sapphire
    September Royal Blue Blue Sapphire Blue Sapphire Iolite
    Lapis Lazuli
    October Pink Opal
    Pink Tourmaline
    Jasper Pink Sapphire
    Pink Emerald - Morganite
    November Golden Yellow Golden Topaz
    Yellow Citrine
    Yellow Citrine Yellow Sapphire
    Tiger's Eye
    December Sky Blue Blue Topaz
    Tanzanite
    Blue Zircon
    Turquoise
    Blue Spinel
    Lapis Lazuli
    Birthstones listed in the "Modern" column are the Official Birthstones adopted by the American National Association of Jewelers,  Jewelers of America.  These Birthstones were Officially adopted in 1912.  Tanzanite, a violet-blue gem from East Africa, is so hot it is the first gem added to the birthstone list since 1912

    Stones listed in the "Traditional" column contains older birthstones and is sometimes combined with the modern birthstone list.  These stones reflect societal birthstone traditions, heralding back to the 15th century. (Many jewelers have differing lists of Traditional Birthstones.)

    Stones listed in the "Alternate" column were Gem Dealers and Jewelery Manufacturers using alternative birthstones for each month.


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  • Anniversary Gemstones
  • ,
    Year Gemstone Year Gemstone
    1st Gold Jewelry  13th Yellow Citrine
    2nd Garnet 14th Opal
    3rd Pearls 15th Ruby
    4th Blue Topaz 16th Peridot
    5th Blue Sapphire 17th Watches
    6th Amethyst 18th Cat's Eye Chrysoberyl
    7th Onyx 19th Aquamarine
    8th Green Tourmaline 20th Emerald
    9th Lapis Lazuli 21st Iolite
    10th Diamond Jewelry 22nd Spinel
    11th Turquoise 23rd Imperial Topaz
    12th Jade 24th Tanzanite




    25th Silver Jubilee 50th Golden Jubilee
    30th Pearl Jubilee 55th Alexandrite
    35th Emerald 60th Diamond Jubilee
    40th Ruby 70th Sapphire Jubilee
    45th Sapphire 80th Ruby Jubilee

    This list of suggested gemstones gifts has been endorsed by the American Gem Trade Association, the  American Gem Society, Jewelers of America, the Jewelry Industry Council, the Gemological Institute of America, and the Cultured Pearl Association of America.

    COLOR

    CLARITY

    CUTS

    ANNIVERSARY CHART

    VIEW OUR GEM STOCK

    BIRTHSTONE CHART

    GEM  FACTS

     FINE  JEWELRY

    DIAMOND FACTS

         

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  • Gemstone Facts
  • Click any main UNDERLINED TITLE to View Gems


    ALEXANDRITE

    Alexandrite changes color from green in daylight or fluorescent lightto red in incandescent or candlelight.
    THE BIRTHSTONE for JUNE
    The 55th ANNIVERSARY STONE

    MOH's scale of hardness : 8.5 
    Specific Gravity : 3.70-3.72
    Refractive Index : 1.744-1.755
    Double Refraction : +0.011
    Alexandrite changes color from green in daylight to red in incandescent light. The first time you see it, it is hard to believe your eyes!  Alexandrite was first discovered in Czarist Russia, in the Ural mountains, in 1830.  The name “Alexandrite” was coined by mineralogist Nordenskjöld. Since the old Russian imperial colors were red and green it was named after Czar Alexander II on the occasion of his coming of age.  Genuine Alexandrite is one of the world's rarest and most coveted Gemstones, it's so rare that most people have never even seen one. 
    Alexandrite is in the Chrysoberyl mineral family and is one of the most fascinating gemstones throughout history. 
    Alexandrite is the variety of chrysoberyl that displays a change-of-color from green to red. A distinct color change is the primary qualification for a chrysoberyl to be considered alexandrite. Although alexandrite is strongly trichroic, its color change has nothing to do with pleochroism. Instead, like all other color-change gems, it results in a near-equal transmission of the blue-green and red portions of the spectrum, coupled with strong absorption in the yellow. Thus its color is dependant on the spectral strength of the light source. Incandescent light is strongly tilted to the red end, thus causing alexandrite to appear reddish. Daylight, is more equally balanced. Since our eyes are most sensitive to green light, the balance is tipped to the green side. The strength of the color change is related to the difference in the areas of transmission, relative to the absorption in the yellow. The greater the difference, the stronger the color change.
    A color change occurs in very few gemstones. 
    For alexandrite, the quality of the color change is paramount. While the holy grail is a gem whose color changes like a traffic light from green to red, such a stone has yet to be found. In fine examples, the change is typically one from a slightly bluish green to a purplish red. The quality of color change is often referred to by dealers in a percentage basis, with 100% change being the ideal. Stones that display a change of 30% or less are of marginal interest and are arguably not even alexandrite. Significant brown or gray components in either of the twin colors will lower value dramatically. The natural color change in Alexandrite ranges from various shades of Green (blue-greens, kelley-greens, olive-greens, teal-greens, etc.) when the gem is under "fluorescent" lighting, or in natural outdoor light "in the shade" (not direct sunlight)... then the color changes to various shades of Red (burgundy-reds, purplish-reds, reddish-purples, violetish-purples, amethyst, etc.) when exposed to light in a room with only incandescent light, tungsten light, or candlelight (a flashlight will bring out the color change too).  To get the maximum color change effect the gem is best viewed in a dark room with no outdoor light at all, then turn on a fluorescent light to see the green shade, then turn on a standard incandescent light bulb with the fluorescent light off to see the reddish shade.  You can cycle the lights back and forth to see the distinct color change.  Alexandrite will normally darken when taken out into direct sunlight, since it is subjected all the colors in the spectrum,  also if subjected to several types of lighting sources at the same time the colors may twinkle with both the red and the green color bouncing around different facets in the stone.  When the primary color has a bit of brownish in with the green, this is due to the bleeding of the two colors.  Typically this is referred to as the percentage of color change.  The higher the color change percentage, the more expensive the gem. 
    When the color change from fluorescent light to tungsten light is not an obvious color change from one of the various shades of green to one of the shades of red, the gem is usually called "alexandrite like" or a "color change Chrysoberyl" since it does not quite have the distinct greenish to reddish color change to be called "Alexandrite".
    In terms of clarity, alexandrite is comparable to ruby, with clean faceted stones in sizes of one carat being rare and sizes over a carat and especially above 2–3 carats are extremely rare. Negative crystals and parallel rutile silk are common inclusions.
    In the market, alexandrites are found in a variety of shapes and cutting styles. Ovals are cushions are the most common, but rounds are also seen occasionally, as are a few other shapes.
    Alexandrite can be found in jewels of the period as it was well loved by the Russian master jewelers. Master gemologist George Kunz of Tiffany was a fan of alexandrite and the company produced many rings featuring fine alexandrite in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century, including some set in platinum from the twenties. Some Victorian jewelry from England features sets of small alexandrites. 
    The original locality for alexandrite is Russia. Russian Alexandrite is extremely rare, the original source in Russia's Ural Mountains has long since dried up after producing for only a few decades. A few Russian miners are still working those trailings there in the Urals, and they are finding a few fine gems, but only in very limited quantities. We secure rare Russian gems from the Ekaterinburg area of the Ural mountains as soon as they are found and made available to us. Some are small stones, less than a carat, but they all have a dramatic color change. Color change gemstones of Russian origin like this is particularly rare and highly valued by collectors. In 1987, an important new deposit was discovered at Hematita, Brazil. This mine produced for just a brief period, but a number of fine stones were found. We gained access to the finest Alexandrite from these mines. This Brazilian Alexandrite shows a striking similarity to the fine Russian gems, having an attractive color change from bluish-green to raspberry like purplish-red. These Brazilian gems are also in very limited quantities, so they remain extremely rare and expensive, but we are able to get them in larger stones over a carat and make them available to you. We have also secured some of the finest Alexandrite from Sri Lanka. We were able to secure some fine gems from the Rakwana area, and these are absolutely stunning, changing from a vibrant bluish-green to a very nice reddish-Purple. We also have a few fine specimens from the Ratnapura region. These fine gems have a very good color change also, but it's usually a little more of an olive green changing to a purple stone. It is not quite as dramatic as the Russian, Brazilian, and Rakwana material, but very nice indeed. The price per carat is a little more obtainable. The availability this fine material on our website means a new generation has the opportunity to own this beautiful and rare gemstone. Alexandrite stones have also been found in Zimbabwe, Burma, Tanzania, Madagascar, and India, but we don't feature these since we are very selective and only want to bring you the best of the best. 
    When evaluating alexandrite, pay the most attention to the color change: the more dramatic and complete the shift from red to green, without the bleeding through of brown from one color to the next, the more rare and valuable the stone. The other important value factors are the attractiveness of the two colors - the more intense each color is the better - then look for the clarity, and then the cutting quality. 

    Alexandrite is one of the world‘s most expensive gems, with prices similar to those fetched by fine ruby or emerald. But like all gem materials, low-quality (i.e., non-gem quality) pieces may be available for a few dollars per carat. Such stones are generally not clean enough to facet. Because of the rarity of this gemstone, large sizes command very high premiums. Facet-quality alexandrite rough is extremely rare. Thus even the very small stones less than 0.5 ct. (melee) can sell for thousands of dollars per carat. Any fine faceted alexandrite around one and a half carats or especially above two carats should be considered quite large. Stones of quality above five carats are extremely rare. 
    W
    e do not sell Synthetics. To assure you that you are getting a genuine Alexandrite from us, we normally provide you with a Gem Identification Report from a reputable Independent Gem Laboratory. The cost of this Gem Report is included in the price of the gem.  Some of the smaller Alexandrite gems may not have a Gem Report listed, in that case we will normally provide a "Statement of Sale and Evaluation for Insurance", and this report would include the specific details on that particular gem as our guarantee of authenticity.
    Alexandrite is an excellent investment stone since it is definitely considered a "Very Rare" gem. 
    TREATMENTS - Typically Alexandrite is not treated since it would adversely affect the natural color change phenomena.
    CARE - Alexandrite is also excellent in jewelry since it is quite hard, however, as with all Chrysoberyl, it should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Alexandrite in jewelry.
    NOTE
    While true synthetic alexandrite does exist, the vast majority are actually a synthetic color-change sapphire, colored by vanadium, not synthetic alexandrite. Since synthetic color-change sapphires have been made from about 1909 onwards, it is entirely possible to have a piece that could be classified as an antique. Indeed, many a traveler has returned from a third-world trip with what they think is natural alexandrite, only to later discover (or have their heirs discover) that what they have is a cheap synthetic sapphire worth but a few dollars per carat. If you own a gem that you suspect is an alexandrite, and you are wondering how to tell the difference between synthetic and genuine alexandrite, we recommend you send the stone to a reputable Gem Laboratory and ask for a Gem Identification Report.
    The following links are to reputable Gem Laboratories and Appraisers (in Alphabetical order).  
    Prices for gem reports may range from $100 to $1,000, depending on how much detail you want on the report. 
    AGA | AGL | AGS | AGTA | EGL | GIA | GRS | GUBELIN | GUILD | IGI | LPSL | SSEF

     

    Alexandrite Cat's Eye

    Cat's Eye Alexandrite is Green in sunlight or fluorescent lightto purplish-Red in candlelight or tungsten light with a strong Grayish/Bluish White eye

    Alexandrite is very rare, and a Cat's Eye Alexandrite is even more so.  This Gem is cut as a Cabochon. The stone is usually translucent with a color change of Green or greenish in sunlight or fluorescent light to Purple or purplish in candlelight or tungsten light. This fine gemstone has a strong Grayish/Bluish White eye (chatoyancy) which reaches from girdle to girdle.
    TREATMENTS - Typically Cat's Eye Alexandrite is not treated since it would adversely affect the natural color change phenomena as well as the chatoyancy.
    CARE - Cat's Eye Alexandrite is also excellent in jewelry since it is quite hard, however, as with all Chrysoberyl, it should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  Warm, soapy water and a soft brush are the best way to clean Cat's Eye Alexandrite in jewelry.
    This is a Very Very Rare Gem with a great investment potential!

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    AMETHYST

    Amethyst
    THE BIRTHSTONE for FEBRUARY
    The 6th ANNIVERSARY STONE

    MOH's scale of hardness : 7 
    Specific Gravity : 2.63-2.65
    Refractive Index : 1.544-1.553
    Double Refraction : +0.009
    Amethyst, a member of the Quartz mineral family, and has Purple hues that vary from very pale to dark.  The medium-dark to dark tones are considered the most desirable and of course are quite a bit more expensive than the lighter tones.  The finest gems usually come from the Elahara mines in Sri Lanka, and the Pau d'Arco mines in Brazil. These fine gemstones are deep dark and rich in color, with all the fire in sparkle you would want to see.  Most Amethysts on the market are relatively free of inclusions. Sources for this gemstone are Brazil, Sri Lanka, Uruguay, Madagascar, Zambia, U.S., Canada, and India.
    TREATMENTS - Typically Amethyst is not treated.
    CARE - It is usually safe to clean Amethyst jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.
    Rose De France Amethyst
    Or Rose Quartz is available in transparent to translucent light to medium Pink. Titanium oxide is the impurity which creates the Pink hue. Much of the faceting material comes from Brazil.

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    AMETRINE

    Ametrine

    MOH's scale of hardness : 7 
    Specific Gravity : 2.63-2.65
    Refractive Index : 1.544-1.553
    Double Refraction : +0.009
    Also called Amethyst/Citrine.  Ametrine is a Bi-color variety of Quartz, part Violet/Purple Amethyst and part Yellow Citrine with distinct color separation. Ametrine is a natural Gemstone found only in southeastern Bolivia near the border with Brazil. The color distribution in Ametrine can be very distinct with a straight demarcation between the two colors.
    Typically the Gem is cut in Rectangular shapes in order to display the colors best. Round and Oval cuts tend to mix the colors through internal reflections and are used most effectively in jewelry and carvings.
    TREATMENTS - Typically Ametrine is not treated.
    CARE - It is usually safe to clean Ametrine jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.

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    ANDALUSITE
    7.5 on the MOH's scale of hardness
    Also called Poor Man's Alexandrite, because it has a faint color change and can look vaguely similar. Andalusite usually varies from light yellowish brown to green-brown, light brownish pink, red-brown to dark-red, grayish green, olive, even violet brown-green, or rarely definite green and has strong pleochroism that makes it hard to identify the main color.  Andalusite is a transparent gem that's almost iridescent with an unexceptional vitreous luster.  Andalusite is a natural Gemstone found in Andalusia Spain (thus the name), Sri Lanka, Brazil, Quebec Canada, Russia and Maine/Massachusetts USA.  Andalusite is normally cut as a faceted mixed oval cut to enhance the luster and strong pleochroism (color change phenomena).  The most valuable stones have greenish to reddish pleochroism.
    TREATMENTS - Typically Andalusite is not treated since it would adversely affect the natural color change phenomena.
    CARE - It is usually safe to clean Andalusite jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.
    Andalusite is not plentiful on the market and is mainly in demand with collectors.  Large cuts are rare.

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    APATITE
    5 on the MOH's scale of hardness
    Apatite ranges in color from colorless to pink, yellow, green, blue, and violet.  It has a vitreous luster and is sensitive to acids. Apatite is easily confused with Beryl, Topaz and Tourmaline.  Sources for this gemstone are Brazil, Burma, Sri Lanka, Czechoslovakia, India, Malagasy Republic, Mexico, and the U.S.
    TREATMENTS - Typically Apatite is not treated.
    CARE - Apatite should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your Apatite jewelry.

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    AQUAMARINE

    Aquamarine (Santa Maria)
    THE BIRTHSTONE for MARCH
    The 19th ANNIVERSARY STONE
    7.5 to 8 on the MOH's scale of hardness

    Aquamarine ranges in color from light to deep greenish-Blue through blue-Green. The richer the color, the more costly the gem is per carat.  Aquamarine achieves its Blue to greenish Blue color from Iron in the ferrous state.  Its name is from two Latin words meaning "water" and "sea". Aquamarine amulets were thought to render sailors fearless and protect them from adversities at sea, especially if the stone was engraved with a Poseidon on a chariot. The stone was symbol of happiness and eternal youth, and according to Christian symbolism, it signified moderation and control of the passions to it's owners.
    Aquamarine is a member of the Beryl (BARE-ul) mineral family, along with Emerald, Golden Beryl, Goshenite, Bixbite and Morganite.  Brazil is the principal source for Aquamarine. More than 80% of the the Brazilian Aquamarine comes from an area around Teofilo Otoni in the western part of Minas Gerais. Aquamarine is also found in China, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Madagascar, Malagasy Republic, Nigeria, Zambia, U.S. in Maine as well as Idaho and California, and the former Soviet Union in the Ural Mountains, as well as Transbaikalia and Siberia.
    Aquamarine gemstones with intense colors are becoming very scarce, and their price has increased substantially.
    Top colors according to the GIA color grading system have 2-4 tones, with 1-4 saturation.
    TREATMENTS - The bright sky blue shade is now produced by heat treating the greenish-yellow, greenish, and even brownish beryl gems, so you should assume that all Aquamarine "may have been" treated. The heat treatment process is a permanent process that does not adversely affect the performance and durability of the gemstone, so there's no need to worry when you see this enhancement disclosed.
    CARE - Aquamarine should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.

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    BERYL
    MOH's scale of hardness : 7.5-8 
    Specific Gravity : 2.65-2.75
    Refractive Index : 1.570-1.600
    Double Refraction : -0.006-0.009
    The Beryl mineral family is a popular one because of the beautiful varieties of colors and the durability of the stones.  Beryl is an excellent choice for jewelry. The Beryl mineral family includes Aquamarine, Bixbite (red beryl), Emerald, Golden Beryl, Goshenite, and Morganite.  With the exception of Emerald and Bixbite, all other Beryls are typically clean stones, virtually free of eye visible inclusions.  Beryls colors include Colorless, Blue, Green, Yellow, Pink, Peach and Red.
    TREATMENTS - See the individual class of Beryl for the typical treatment process that may apply.
    CARE - Beryls should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.
    Bixbite (Red) Beryl
    Bixbite is the Red Beryl, extremely rare, probably 100 times more rare than Alexandrite.  Typically a strong Ruby Red or slightly violetish Red color, with numerous inclusions and internal flaws.  It's pleochroism is comparable to Burma Ruby.  This gem is typically heavily included, opaque, and the faceted Gem is very very expensive.  You could expect to pay $20,000 to $25,000 for a one (1) carat Red Beryl.
    TREATMENTS - Typically Red Beryl is not treated since it would adversely affect the value.
    CARE - Red Beryl should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Red Beryl.
    Goshenite Beryl
    Goshenite Beryl is the Colorless Beryl, named after a find in Goshen Massachusetts, which may have a very slight tint of Blue or Silver. This transparent, faceted Gem is an inexpensive choice for jewelry.  Goshenite is found in Brazil and the U.S.
    TREATMENTS - Typically Colorless Beryl is not treated.
    CARE - Colorless Beryl should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Colorless Beryl.
    Golden Beryl
    Golden Beryl varies between lemon yellow and golden yellow, and typically has visible inclusions. This transparent, faceted Gem is an inexpensive choice for jewelry.  Golden Beryl is found in Sri Lanka and Nambia.
    TREATMENTS - Typically Golden Beryl is not treated.
    CARE - Golden Beryl should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Golden Beryl.
    Heliodor
    Heliodor varies between lemon-yellow and gold to olive oil colored.  Typically it has liquid type inclusions typical of beryl, but they are usually clear.  Heliodor is similar to chrysoberyl in appearance, but is usually more lustrous and and has different physical characteristics.  Heliodor is found in Brazil and Nambia.
    TREATMENTS - Typically Heliodor is not treated, but the pigment is uranium oxide and so this gem is not a suitable choice for jewelry.
    CARE - Heliodor should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean this gem.

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    CHRYSOBERYL

    Chrysoberyl

    MOH's scale of hardness : 8.5 
    Specific Gravity : 3.70-3.72
    Refractive Index : 1.744-1.755
    Double Refraction : +0.011
    Chrysoberyl has a natural color that ranges from Pale Yellow to Pale Greenish Yellow or Green, or Pale Brownish Yellow.  It's color range is like the Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye but a bit more green or brown.  The pale yellow color closely resembles Light Yellow Sapphire, but it is not as brilliant.  Normally this gemstone is found in Mixed Oval cuts and  Round cuts to bring out the excellent luster of the stone, and sometimes it can even be found in Trilliant, Marquis, and Pear cuts.  Our main source is Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), known for producing some of the finest Gemstones in the world.  Other sources for this gemstone are Madagascar and Brazil.  The value of Chrysoberyl is about the same as Tourmaline and Spinel.
    TREATMENTS - Typically Chrysoberyl is not treated.
    CARE - Chrysoberyl should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush are the best way to clean Chrysoberyl jewelry.

    CHRYSOBERYL CAT'S EYE

    Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye
    The 18th ANNIVERSARY STONE

    Many Gems have Cat's Eyes, but Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye is the best known. A Cat's Eye stone is a Cabochon which has fine tubes or needles which run across the stone (chatoyancy). When properly cut, the light reflects as a floating silky eye. The sharp eye in the Cabochon resembles the iris of a Cat's Eye, hence the term Cat's Eye.
    Chrysoberyl Cat's Eyes are normally pale Yellow, honey Yellow and Brown/Yellow, sometimes with a touch of Green. The very best and hardest to locate is a honey Brown. The rarest Cat's Eye is one where a light shown through the side of the stone creates a shadow in the stone. Two shades of color separating the Cat's Eye are then evident. This is called a milk and honey effect due to the lighter and darker shades of color. The strength of the Eye, clarity, color and size of the Cabochon determine the price per carat.
    TREATMENTS - Typically Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye is not treated since it would adversely affect the natural  chatoyancy.  Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye is often times found to be radioactive, so it must pass the RDX test and have -0- radiation to be imported into the US.
    CARE - Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye (non-radioactive) is excellent in jewelry since it is quite hard, however, as with all Chrysoberyl, it should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush are the best way to clean Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye jewelry.
    We only feature and offer Natural Non-Radioactive Chrysoberyl Cat's Eye.

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    CITRINE


    THE BIRTHSTONE for NOVEMBER
    The 13th ANNIVERSARY STONE

    MOH's scale of hardness : 7 
    Specific Gravity : 2.65
    Refractive Index : 1.554-1.553
    Double Refraction : +0.009
    Citrine, a member of the Quartz mineral family, is a Quartz whose color is probably caused by Iron traces.
    Citrine's name is derived from the French Citrine for lemon.  Color ranges from medium yellow to medium-dark orange-yellow.  Madeira Citrine's color ranges from medium-dark orange-yellow to Root Beer. Sources for this gemstone are Brazil, Bolivia, and Madagascar.
    TREATMENTS - Citrine is routinely heat treated to bring out the reddish tints, whereas natural citrine is pale yellow in comparison.
    CARE - It is usually safe to clean Citrine jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your Citrine jewelry.

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    EMERALD

    Emerald
    THE BIRTHSTONE for MAY
    The 20th and 35th ANNIVERSARY STONE

    MOH's scale of hardness : 7.5-8 
    Specific Gravity : 2.67-2.78
    Refractive Index : 1.576-1.582
    Double Refraction : 0.006
    Emerald, the first stones were mined in the deserts of Egypt near the Red Sea in what were known as Cleopatra's Mines.  Egyptian Emerald mined today are small and dark stones.  Sources for this gemstone are Colombia, Africa, and Brazil.
    Emerald is a member of the Beryl mineral family, along with Aquamarine, Golden Beryl, Goshenite, Bixbite and Morganite. The name for Emerald is taken from the Greek smaragdos, meaning Green stone.
     Chromium, vanadium, and iron are the trace elements that give emerald it’s color.  The presence or absence of each and their relative amounts determines the hue, tone, and saturation of an emerald.  Generally, the higher the chromium or vanadium content, the more intense the green color. As iron content decreases, so does emerald’s degree of blue.  When iron content is relatively high, emerald is a bluer green. When iron content is relatively low, emerald is a purer green.  Emeralds can be very strong bluish green to green hues, although some emeralds may be very slightly yellowish green.  The most desirable emerald colors are bluish-Green to Green, with strong to vivid saturation and medium to dark tone.  If the hue is too yellowish or too bluish, the stone is not emerald, but a different variety of beryl.  As with other colored stones, a well-trained eye is normally required to recognize the sometimes-subtle variations that make significant differences in emerald value.  Inclusions are generally accepted in Emeralds since all but the rare few have visible inclusions of Mica, Pyrite or Calcite or the "garden" type inclusions.  The most prized emeralds are highly transparent, with evenness of color, and with no eye-visible color zoning.  Inclusions can be important in separating natural from synthetic emeralds as well as for identifying the country of origin.

    TREATMENTS - Virtually all Emerald on the market has some sort of surface-reaching fractures and openings. The visibility of the inclusions is reduced by filling them. Traditionally, oils (such as cedarwood oil) are used but in time they tend to dry out thus making the inclusion more readily visible again and the gem would require another oil bath.  Today, natural resin or wax type materials are preferred over the traditional oils, since the resin or wax is a natural substance with more of an almost permanent treatment life.  Emerald enhancement processes date back over 600 years, and oil, natural resin, or wax type treatments are accepted trade practices that do not adversely affect the performance and durability of the gemstone, so you can expect all Emeralds will have some type of enhancement.  There's no need to worry when you see these enhancements disclosed.
    CARE - Emeralds must be treated with care to prevent chipping.  Emerald jewelry should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. We recommend
    Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Emerald jewelry.
    We only feature and offer Natural Emeralds.
    The vibrant Green incomparable beauty is reason enough for owning this Gem.


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    GARNET

    Pyrope GarnetRhodolite GarnetTsavorite GarnetHessonite GarnetSpessartite Garnet
    THE BIRTHSTONE for JANUARY
    The 2nd ANNIVERSARY STONE

    MOH's scale of hardness: 6-1/2 to 7-1/2 
    Specific Gravity : see type
    Refractive Index : see type
    Double Refraction : Only Rhodolite
    The Latin root word for Garnet is Granatum, meaning pomegranate, thought to resemble the fruit's seeds.
    There are several varieties in the Garnet family.
    Pyrope (bright red to dark brick-red), Rhodolite (pinkish-red), Almandine (deep violet-red), Spessartite (orange-pink to orange-red with brownish yellow), Spessartine (midway between almondine and spessartite), Hessonite (honey-yellow to yellow-brown), Grossular (light yellowish-green to strong bluish-green), and Anaradite (honey-yellow=trapazolite, green=demantoid, blackish-red to black=melanite). 
    Garnets are available in all colors except pure Blue.  In recent years there have been new finds and Gem Merchants may use pet names like Orange garnet and Mandarin garnet to describe them, but these are really in the Spessartite variety, just as Tsavorite is in the Grossular variety.  Scroll down to get more specific info on the different varieties of Garnet.
     
    CARE - It is usually safe to clean Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your gemstone jewelry.

    Color Change Garnet

    MOH's scale of hardness : 7 to 7-1/2 

    Specific Gravity : 3.78-3.85

    Refractive Index : 1.760 (+.020 -.018)

    Double Refraction : None

    Color Change Garnet is very scarce, with very few stones in the worldwide market. These Garnets are a rare mixture of Pyrope and Spessartite, but also have Chromium and Vanadium, which gives it the color change. They have a wide variability in color behavior. The lesser quality stones can vary in shades of drab brownish colors, whereas the top gem quality stones can be vivid purples and vivid blue-greens in daylight or fluorescent lighting to purplish-Reds and Blood Reds in candle light or incandescent lighting, in the top quality stones, blue hues are very rare. Top Gem Color Change Garnet can be easily confused with top quality Alexandrite, the color shift can be that dramatic. Typically Color Change Garnet stones are faceted and range in sizes between 1 to 10 carats. Some of the identifying characteristics are rutile, pyrite, and apatite crystals visible in the stone. Color Change Garnets are found in Sri Lanka, Africa, and Brazil. Expect the extraordinary stones to continue to increase in value, since they a very highly valued Collectors Gemstone.

    CARE - It is usually safe to clean Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but never use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your Color Change Garnet jewelry.


    Pyrope Garnet

    Pyrope Garnet

    MOH's scale of hardness : 7 to 7-1/2
    Specific Gravity : 3.65-3.80
    Refractive Index : 1.730-1.760
    Double Refraction : Only Rhodolite

    Pyrope Garnets are the most common on the market.  They are typically Red with a brownish tint, or Brick Red in color.  Pyrope is sometimes called "Cape Ruby" and sometimes confused with Almondine and Spinel.  Pyrope Garnets are tough wearing stones, so an excellent choice for jewelry.


    Rhodolite Garnet

    Rhodolite Garnet

    Rhodolite is the name used to describe the lovely pinkish, purplish or lavender Red Garnets which are a mixture of Almandite and Pyrope. This name was first used in the late 1800's to describe the new rhododendron shade of Garnets discovered in North Carolina. Rhodolites are usually Red stones, ranging from a dark reddish purplish Red and the popular Raspberry Rhodolite, rich Purple with bright Lavender highlights.  Prices are based on the color, size and clarity of the stone. Rhodolite Garnets are not as dark as the common Pyrope Garnets. Rhodolites are normally African in origin and are bright, transparent Gems. 

    CARE - It is usually safe to clean Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your Rhodolite  Garnet jewelry.


    Demantoid Garnet

    Demantoid Garnet

    MOH's scale of hardness : 6-1/2 to 7 
    Specific Gravity : 3.82-3.85
    Refractive Index : 1.888-1.889
    Double Refraction : None

    Green Demantoid Garnet is one of the rarest Garnets. Discovered in Russia in 1868, the  supply was consumed in jewelry by 1896.  Production now is limited to a few stones a year. Utilized in Art Nouveau jewelry during the turn of the century.  Demantoid is important to Gem aficionados for four reasons: its great rarity, its color, its high dispersion and its distinctive inclusion.  Dispersion, or the breaking of White light into spectral colors, is measured at 0.044 for Diamond and 0.057 for Demantoid.  Demantoid's name means "diamond" in German, an indication of its beautiful luster.  Demantoid deposits of lesser material exist in San Bonito County, California, the Piedmont area of Italy, Iran, Nambia, Korea, the Congo and the Stanley Butts area of Arizona, but because the original locality for demantoid was in Russia’s Ural Mountains, the Russian material remains the standard by which the gem is judged.  While the color of demantoid never equals that of the finest emerald, an emerald-green is the ideal.  The color should be as intense as possible, without being overly dark.  Many stones are in the yellowish-Green range with lesser qualities being brownish Green of grayish Green.  The color of demantoid is believed to be due to chromium.  It should be noted that the fire in a demantoid is best seen in the lighter, less saturated gems. Thus color preference is a matter of individual taste.  Some people will choose an intense body color and less fire, while others prefer a lighter body color and more fire.  Demantoid garnet generally looks best under daylight.  Incandescent light makes it appear slightly more yellowish-green.  Because of its high dispersion, demantoid looks great in the same type of lighting as diamond, i.e., multi-point (as opposed to diffuse) lighting.  Demantoid is relatively clean, thus when buying one you should look for an eye-clean or near-eye-clean stone.  Demantoids exhibit a unique Byssolite inclusion called a "horse tail."  This inclusion is formed by Asbestos, needle-like fibers which radiate from a central crystal, usually Chrysolite, in a curving style similar to a horse's tail.  Gem cutters often fashion a Demantoid to better show the inclusion since this is a definite characteristic of a Demantoid.  Generally you will only find  round brilliant, oval, or cushion cuts.  Typically crystals are small and not plentiful, generally under 1 Carat.  Demantoid is rare in faceted stones above 2 cts.  Fine demantoids above 5 carats can be considered world-class pieces.  Some demantoid garnet is heat-treated to improve the color, and the resulting stones are stable under normal wearing conditions.  Demantoid is among the most expensive of all garnets, but like all gem materials, low-quality (i.e., non-gem quality) pieces may be available for a few dollars per carat.  Prices for demantoid vary greatly according to size and quality, but gem quality stones with no enhancement may reach as much as $10,000 per carat.  Demantoid Garnet is a valued Collectors Gemstone.


    Grossular Garnet

    Grossular Garnet

    MOH's scale of hardness : 7 to 7-1/2 
    Specific Gravity : 3.60-3.68
    Refractive Index : 1.738-1.745
    Double Refraction : None

    The Grossular Garnet species incorporates many colors: Colorless, Yellow, Green, Orange, Brown, Pink and Black. Of course there are many variations and shades of these colors.  Pure Grossular is Colorless.  Grossular Garnets can have a particular inclusion which is an identifying characteristic. A treacle or swirly appearance created by tiny included crystals, generally Diopside crystals, is common to Grossular Garnets.
    Sources for Grossular Garnet are Sri Lanka, Canada, U.S., Mexico, Africa, Australia and Brazil. Grossular Garnet is a valued Collectors Gemstone.


    Hessonite Garnet

    Hessonite Garnet

    Part of the Grossular Garnet species.  Hessonite Garnets are available in Yellow, Orange and Red/Orange. The Red/Orange Hessonite is often referred to as "Cinnamon" stone because it matches the color of oil of cinnamon produced in Ceylon.  Our source for Hessonite Garnet is Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), known for producing the finest variety of Garnet.  Other sources are Canada, Mexico, U.S., Brazil and Africa.  Hessonite Garnet is a valued Collectors Gemstone.


    Tsavorite Garnet

    Tsavorite Garnet

    Tsavorite is the intense Green Grossular Garnet named after the Tsavo National Park in Kenya.  Tsavorite was first discovered in 1967 and was named by Henry B. Platt, vice-president of Tiffany & Co., after the site of that find.
    Tsavorite is often compared to other Green Gemstones, and it is easily a match for the better known Emerald. Actually Tsavorite is superior to the Emerald in many ways, and it is a rarer stone. Tsavorite is a tougher, more durable stone with a higher luster, resulting in a higher polish.  It also has a higher refractive index, 1.74 for Tsavorite compared to 1.57 for Emerald, so Tsavorite is the brighter stone for setting with Diamonds since the Tsavorite will display more sparkle and fire.
    Shades vary from pure Green to yellowish Green.  Like Emerald, most Tsavorites will have some visible inclusions.  Most Tsavorite production is under 1 Carat.  A 2 Carat Tsavorite is considered large! Tsavorite a is a valued Collectors Gemstone due to its rarity and its beauty.


    Spessartite Garnet

    Spessartite Garnet

    MOH's scale of hardness : 7 to 7-1/2 
    Specific Gravity : 4.12-4.20
    Refractive Index : 1.795-1.815
    Double Refraction : None

    Spessartite Garnets are not commonly found on the market.  Their vivid Orange color, sometimes with a Orange-Red to Orange-Pink color, is the most desired.  This Gem is especially Rare in clean faceted stones larger than 3 carats, and Gems over 10 carats are extremely Rare. The labor involved is arduous because the crystals are buried in pockets in pegmatites, once molten lava, and the miner slowly moves from pocket to pocket to retrieve the crystals.  Spessartite has good transparency, considerable luster, and normally found in Mixed or Oval cuts.  This Gem received its name from the area in Spessart, Germany, where it was originally found in the 1800's.  Since all Garnets are tough wearing stones, Spessartite is an excellent choice for jewelry.  Spessartite a is a valued Collectors Gemstone due to its rarity and its beauty.


    Mali Garnet

    One of the latest discoveries in the Garnet family. From Mali, Africa, these attractive Garnets are a rare mixture of Andradite and Grossular and only came into the market in late 1994.  Mali Garnets are much rarer than Tsavorite Garnets.  All are a bright, uniform light yellowish Green. These are extraordinary stones that are expected to increase in value.


    Malaia (Malaya) Garnet

     

    MOH's scale of hardness : 7 to 7-1/2 

    Specific Gravity : 3.78-3.85

    Refractive Index : 1.760 (+.020 -.018)

    Double Refraction : None

    Malaia (muh-LYE-uh) Garnet (also called Malaya Garnet) is in the Garnet family from the Umba Valley in Tanzania, Africa. This Garnet has an unusual history. In the late 1970's, East African miners included this Orange and reddish Orange stone in parcels of Rhodolite Garnet being offered to Japanese dealers. The "off" colors, summarily rejected for their obviously different color, were contemptuously called Malaya by the miners. This Swahili word means outcast or prostitute. German and American dealers saw the beauty of this "outcast" Gem and began marketing Malaya Garnet in 1979. These Garnets are a rare mixture of Pyrope and Spessartite. They generally range in color from a slightly pinkish-orange or reddish-orange or yellowish-orange, and tones from light to dark. These extraordinary stones are expected to increase in value. Top color Malaya Garnets are pure orange or reddish-orange, sometimes with a touch of peach. These vibrant stones are beautiful especially when mounted in Jewelry. Malaia Garnets are very limited on the market.

    CARE - It is usually safe to clean Garnet jewelry in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but never use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean your Malaia Garnet jewelry.

     


    Mandarin (Orange) Garnet

    This "Sunkist" Orange Garnet is a newcomer to the Gem Markets.  Discovered in 1992 in Namibia near the north border with Angola, Mandarin Garnet is mined in wasteland conditions. Temperatures have been known to reach 140°F in a desert area populated by Angolan soldiers who have fled their homeland.  Mandarin Garnet is part of the Spessartite Garnet species and has a hardness of 6-6.5. Its uniform, vivid color of pure Orange sets it apart from other Orange stones.  Garnets take a good polish, so this is a beautiful Gem for mounting.  Potential for this Gem is good because jewelry demand will grow due to its vivid color and brightness.


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    IOLITE

    Iolite

    The 21st ANNIVERSARY STONE

    MOH's scale of hardness : 7 to 7-1/2 
    Specific Gravity : 2.58-2.66
    Refractive Index : 1.542-1.551
    Double Refraction : -0.008 to -0.012
    Iolite, also called Cordierite, Dichroite, or Water Sapphire when the color is not very intense.  Iolite varies from quite Deep Blue to violet Blue to light grayish-Blue, but it always has a strong pleochroism. Our source for these vitreous, transparent, faceted stones is Sri Lanka, Brazil, India, Tanzania, Burma, Finland, Madagascar, Nambia, and Norway.  This Gems are usually just a few carats in size, so to find anything over 3 carats in a rare find indeed. Iolite is cut to maximize the color and pleochroism. Iolite is often confused with Sapphire and Tanzanite.
    The most common cut to be found is Oval or Rectangular step cut.
    TREATMENTS - Typically Iolite is not treated.
    CARE - Jewelry featuring Iolite should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Iolite.

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    KUNZITE

    Kunzite

    MOH's scale of hardness : 6-1/2 to 7 
    Specific Gravity : 3.16-3.20
    Refractive Index : 1.655-1.680
    Double Refraction : +0.015
    Kunzite, named after George F. Kunz, the noted Gemologist for Tiffany & Company, in 1902, is probably the best known member of the Spodumene mineral family.  Our source for these beautiful, transparent, faceted stones is Brazil.  This Violet-Pink Gem is frequently encountered in very large sizes and in deep cut Gems as a way of maximizing the color. Smaller stones, those under 10 Carats, will usually have lighter color than larger ones.
    TREATMENTS - The very nature of Kunzite requires it's color to be enhanced and stabilized by Irradiation followed by Heat treatment.  Caution should be exercised regarding exposure to sunlight, however, since the color can become faded.
    CARE - Jewelry featuring Kunzite should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Kunzite.

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    MORGANITE

    Morganite
    THE PINK EMERALD
    THE BIRTHSTONE for OCTOBER (Pink)

    MOH's scale of hardness : 7-1/2 to 8 
    Specific Gravity : 3.27-3.37
    Refractive Index : 1.654-1.690
    Double Refraction : +0.036
    Morganite is in the Beryl mineral family.  The public was just begining to gain awareness of this soft pink stone named after J.P. Morgan (Morganite) but is now gaining recognition by a new name "Pink Emerald".  This Gem is truly rare, especially in the larger sizes with good color.  In reality, green emerald is not rare, diamond is anything but rare, since everyone in the world has one, regardless of their income level, but Morganite is very rare.  Gem dealers in the know have one tucked away because they've always thought it would be an important gemstone.  Pink Emerald is finally receiving the appreciation and price level it deserves.  Pink Emerald prices are now at around $450 per carat for some of the smaller stones (<3 carats) in lighter colors, and range to upwards of $10,000 per carat for large stones with rich color.  Some dealers see Morganites easily being $10,000 to $30,000 per carat in the very near future.  Morganite, or Pink Emeralds are following the lead taken in 1990 when  red beryl, or bixbite, was being sold and marketed as Red Emerald.  Red Emerald and Pink Emerald are both beryllium aluminum silicates colored by manganese and chromium, among other things.  These precious gems are extremely desirable and beautiful.  As with most gems, the larger the Pink Emerald the more it's cost per carat, and the more saturated the color, the higher the price of the gemstone.  It is very difficult to find "choice" Brazilian stones like ours, and the price is consistently going up.  A clean and well cut Pink Emerald (Morganite) with moderate to moderately strong pastel pink color is definitely a winner, a gem you'd be proud to own, but to maintain it properly, make sure you clean it often, following the instructions below.  Pink Emerald or Morganite, is one of my personal favorites.
    TREATMENTS - Typically Morganite is not treated or  enhanced.
    CARE - Jewelry featuring Pink Emerald (Morganite) should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Morganite.
    This is a valued Collectors Gemstone that will continue to gain popularity and increase in value. 

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    PERIDOT

    Peridot
    THE BIRTHSTONE for  AUGUST
    The 16th ANNIVERSARY STONE

    MOH's scale of hardness : 6-1/2 to 7 
    Specific Gravity : 3.27-3.37
    Refractive Index : 1.654-1.690
    Double Refraction : +0.036
    Peridot (pronounced pear-uh-doe) is derived from the Greek word peridona, meaning to provide plentifully.  Peridot ranges in color from yellowish Green to deep olive Green.  Because of the way peridot splits and bends the rays of light passing through it, it has a velvety, "sleepy" appearance-a shining rich glow.  Peridot is a member of the Olivine mineral group. The amount of Iron determines the color saturation. The U.S. has become a major source for Peridot since the world's largest known deposit is on the San Carlos Apache reservation 80 miles west of Phoenix, Arizona.  The rough is dug by Native Americans who sell to nearby dealers.  The faceted Arizona Peridot is normally bright, yellowish Green with minimal inclusions.  Arizona Peridot is modestly priced.
    Burmese Peridot is a rich olive Green and was readily available in large Gem quality stones.  Sources for these fine stones are quite limited now, and premium prices can be demanded for fine, Gem quality Burmese Peridots.  Pakastan Peridot is a very nice rich olive Green, not quite as rich as Burmese, but still readily available in larger Gem quality stones.  Pakastan Peridot prices are a little higher than Arizona Peridot, and a little lower than Burma Peridot, but premium prices can still be demanded for fine, Gem quality Pakistan Peridots. 
    TREATMENTS - Typically Peridot is not treated.
    CARE - Peridot is an excellent choice for jewelry, but should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Peridot.
    Top Quality Large Peridot Gems are also excellent for a Collectors Gemstone.

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    RUBY

    Ruby
    THE BIRTHSTONE for JULY
    The 15th and 40th ANNIVERSARY STONE
    The 80th ANNIVERSARY JUBILEE STONE

    MOH's scale of hardness : 9 
    Specific Gravity : 3.97-4.05
    Refractive Index : 1.766-1.774
    Double Refraction : -0.008
    Ruby is one of the symbols of love.
    Ruby is of the mineral Corundum as is Sapphire.  The red color is called Ruby.  Some gem dealers debate the borderline between ruby and pink sapphire. Historically, the word
    ruby referred to shades of red, which technically included pink. But the names ruby and pink sapphire reflect a bit of a difference in value. That’s why, given a choice, a gem dealer would prefer to be able to call a corundum gem ruby rather than pink sapphire.  Pink Sapphire is really just Light Red Ruby. The International Colored Gemstone Association passed a resolution that the light shades of the red hue be included in the category Ruby since it was too difficult to legislate where red ended and pink began.  In practice, however, pink shades are now known either as Pink Ruby or Pink Sapphire.  Either way, these gems are among the most beautiful of the corundum family. 

    Ruby hues range from strongly purplish-red to orangy-red.  The finest ruby has a slightly purplish-red to pure vibrant red hue.  As the hue becomes more purplish or orangy, the ruby moves down the quality scale into good and commercial ranges. The highest-quality rubies have  vivid saturation.  Medium tone to medium-dark tones are preferred as long as the tone is not so dark that it has a negative effect on brilliance.  At the other extreme, if the tone is too light, the stone is considered pink sapphire, even if saturation levels are high. The most valuable ruby colors are red (R) to slightly purplish red (slpR) with medium (5) to medium-dark (6) tones and strong (5) to vivid (6) saturation.  Typically these are called Cherry Red to Pigeon Blood Red colors.  Chrome imparts the Redness to Ruby.  Here are charts showing the GIA master hue/tone/saturation to determine if corundum is ruby, or if it’s pink, purple, or orange sapphire.  Gem Laboratories that use the GIA scale, grade on the principle that red must be the dominant hue before a stone can be called a ruby, and since identification of the dominant hue is subject to personal perception, in some areas of the world pink sapphires are considered rubies.  Ruby is an excellent choice for jewelry and has a high refraction which produces a bright stone.  Ruby's relative density is high, so a one Carat Ruby will be smaller in millimeter dimensions than a one Carat Diamond.
    We typically offer only the finest Burma and Ceylon Rubies.  The Mogok region in Burma, or Myanmar, is the source historically for the finest Rubies.  Ceylon (Sri Lanka), and Mong Hsu Burma Rubies are what we would consider the regions producing the next to the finest grade Ruby, whereas Rubies from Thailand, Africa and Vietman are typically in the commercial grade of Ruby.  Facet grade Ruby stones are usually cut in the Cushion or Oval shapes.  Native cutters take liberties with the cutting of the pavilions or back side of Rubies to produce larger stones by lifting out dark inclusions, sometimes leaving small cavities (or divets), allowing the culet or bottom point to be a little bit off-center, or by having deeper or shallower than ideal pavilions. Generally these minor points are not noticeable when the stones are mounted, and generally they do not affect the price. Precision cuts required for designer jewelry are cut by strict standards, and consequently the cutting adds to the overall cost of the item.
    Ruby was the first mineral to be produced by commercial Gem synthesis and dates to the 1880's.  Many customers have brought family heirlooms for insurance only to be told that their "Gem" is not a natural stone, so just because it's old doesn't mean it's the real thing.  We have only genuine natural Ruby, so you will not find synthetic Ruby, among our Gemstones.
    TREATMENTS - Over 99% of all Ruby on the market is heat treated, to stabilize and/or enhance the color and/or clarity.  The typical heat treatment process is a permanent process that does not adversely affect the performance and durability of the gemstone, so there's no need to worry when you see this enhancement disclosed.  The typical heat enhancement procedure performed on Ruby from Sri Lanka (Ceylon) normally refers to the lower temperature wood 'blow' heat method, whereas and the typical heat enhancement procedure performed on Mogok, Myanmar, MongHsu, Thai, Vietnamese, and African Ruby usually refers to the high temperature furnace fired method.  Both heating methods are accepted trade practices, and have been for many generations.  The heat treatment process is permanent and does not adversely affect the performance, and durability of the gem, but in recent years demand for natural non-heated non-treated top quality Ruby has caused these gems to command a somewhat higher premium, depending on the gem.  We take pride in finding and featuring many of these non-heated natural Rubies.
    COLOR - The most important factor in the value of a RUBY.  The top qualities are as red as you can imagine: a saturated pure spectral hue without any overtones of brown or blue.  After color, the other factors which influence the value of a ruby are clarity, cut, and size.  There are many variables in colored gem pricing because it's not a controlled market like the diamond market is.  One dealer may sell an Ruby of the same quality at one price and another dealer may sell that same Ruby for another price.  There is no price guide as in diamond purchasing.  Whatever a dealer can get for that rarer colored gem is what it's worth and if he wants to hold out for a certain amount of money he just  has to hope he's making the right move.  So you need to be educated enough to know what you're doing!  Since we cut out these middleman dealers, you can expect to get a great quality stone for considerably less.
    CARE - It is usually safe to clean Ruby in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Ruby jewelry.
    Rubies are an excellent choice for investment that are today still more valuable and rare than even the top quality colorless diamonds.  Natural "unheated" top quality Ruby never decreased in true value and remains a highly valued Collectors Gemstone.

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    STAR RUBY

    Star Ruby

    MOH's scale of hardness : 9 
    Specific Gravity : 3.97-4.05
    Refractive Index : 1.766-1.774
    Double Refraction : -0.008
    Ruby sometimes displays a three-ray, six-point star. These star rubies are cut in a smooth domed cabochon cut to display the effect. The star is best visible when illuminated with a single light source: it moves across the stone as the light moves. This effect, called asterism, is caused by light reflecting off tiny rutile needles, called "silk," which are oriented along the crystal faces.
    The value of star rubies and star sapphires are influenced by two things: 1) The intensity and attractiveness of the body color, and 2) The strength and sharpness of the star.   All six legs should be straight and equally prominent. Star rubies rarely have the combination of a fine translucent or transparent color and a sharp prominent star, but when offered, these gems are valuable and expensive.
    TREATMENTS -
    Genuine Star Ruby is normally "not heat treated", since the heat treatment process can dissolve the rutile needles that causes the asterism to form a star.
    CARE - It is usually safe to clean Star Ruby in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Ruby jewelry.
    Our sources for Star Ruby is Burma and Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), both known for producing the finest variety of Ruby and Sapphire.  Star Rubies are very highly valued Collectors Gemstones.

    NOTE - Most commonly you will see that synthetics jump out as way too perfect looking, ie: a perfect star, a super clean stone, and great color.  If you own one and aren't sure if it's genuine... Here's a few quick ways you might be able to tell the difference... First thing to look at is the bottom, if there is an "L" stamped in the stone, it's a Lindy Star and synthetic... if it does not have an "L" it passes that test, now  look for imperfections within the stone, and/or unevenness on the bottom, and/or stripes or lines of color that shows through the top... most naturals have one or more of these natural imperfections... then look at the star itself, using a flashlight... most natural stars do not have a "perfect" star, whereas the natural will most likely have 1 or more of the 6 legs not exactly the same length, or maybe not all 6 are perfectly straight... now move the flashlight around in a circle, the star should travel around and follow the light source... if the star stays stationary it is definitely synthetic. If it passes these tests, you can take it to a jeweler that has a thermal conductivity gem tester (this tester has a needle gauge, not just the diamond tester that just makes a beep), the dial should jump to the mark just before a diamond to tell you it's corundum. If it passes this test you may have a genuine Star, but don't get super excited yet, these are just simple things you can do to rule out the majority of synthetics, the only way to be sure is to send the stone to a reputable Gem Laboratory and ask for a Gem Identification Report.
    The following links are to reputable Gem Laboratories and Appraisers (in Alphabetical order).  
    Prices for gem reports may range from $100 to $1,000, depending on how much detail you want on the report. 
    AGA | AGL | AGS | AGTA | EGL | GIA | GRS | GUBELIN | GUILD | IGI | LPSL | SSEF

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    SAPPHIRE

    Kashmir SapphirePink SapphireWhite SapphireYellow SapphireOrange Sapphire
    ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for APRIL (White)
    THE BIRTHSTONE for SEPTEMBER (Blue)
    ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for OCTOBER (Pink)
    ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for NOVEMBER (Yellow)
    The 5th and 45th ANNIVERSARY STONE
    The 70th ANNIVERSARY JUBILEE STONE

    MOH's scale of hardness : 9 
    Specific Gravity : 3.99-4.00
    Refractive Index : 1.766-1.774
    Double Refraction : -0.018
    Sapphire and Ruby comprise more than half of all Gemstones sold worldwide.  Sapphire's popularity is not based on color alone.  Its hardness of 9 places it next to Diamond (10), making it an excellent choice for jewelry worn daily.  It is frequently featured in engagement rings.  Most people relate Sapphire to the color Blue.  Sapphire is a form of Corundum, readily available in an array of other colors: Pink, Golden, Green, peachy Orange, Purple and Colorless.  These alternate colors are called 'Fancy Sapphire', or simply variations of the standard hues.  Color change Sapphires are those which have two colors which are distinct when the light source is changed from fluorescent to incandescent.  Generally, the more clear and vivid the color, the more valuable the fancy sapphire.  If the color is in the pastel range, the clarity should be good: because in lighter tones any inclusions are more noticeable. The trade usually recognizes gemstones with fewer visible inclusions to be more valuable than gems with visible inclusions.  In a lighter colored gemstone, the cut is also more important: it should reflect light back evenly across the face of the stone, making it lively and brilliant.  With darker more intense colors, the cut isn't as critical because the color creates its own impact.
    Ceylon (Sri Lanka) positively produces the finest all-round Sapphires in the world today.  The very name commands a premium, and Ceylon Gems have constantly increased in price.  We have always been on top of the Gem market in Ceylon and stay up with current prices and new discoveries.  It is a very difficult market due to political unrest. It IS dangerous to go there, and it's more dangerous to go outside the capital city into the countryside where the stones are hand dug from the pits.  We constantly buy fine Ceylon Sapphires when the price is "right."  To be "right" we have the connections to know who needs quick and ready cash.  Every stone is negotiated differently, thereby affecting the price per carat.  We work hard to bring these highly valued Gemstones to you at very very affordable prices.  Sapphire of lesser quality comes out of Australia, Thailand, Colombia, Kampuchea (Cambodia), Kenya and Tanzania (Africa), and Montana (USA), and we do not usually offer these stones.
    TREATMENTS - Almost all (99%) Sapphire on the market is routinely treated with 'heat' to enhance and stabilize the color.  The typical heat treatment process is a permanent process and it does not normally adversely affect the performance, and durability of the gem, but in recent years demand for natural non-heated non-treated top quality Sapphire has caused these gems to command a somewhat higher premium, depending on the gem.  When we disclose a gem as enhanced with 'heat', we are typically referring to the heat enhancement procedure performed in Sri Lanka right near the mines, using the lower temperature wood heat method.  This 'blow' heat method typically is used on very very good quality Ceylon gems, only to slightly enhance the color and/or to stabilize the color from fading in sunlight.  There's no need to worry when you see this enhancement disclosed.  Almost all Ceylon Padparadscha Sapphire and virtually all Ceylon Orange Sapphire on the market was subjected to 'blow' heat.  This 'blow' heating method has been an accepted trade practice for many many generations.  There are other types of heat enhancement procedures, however, one of which is a high temperature furnace fired method.  This 'furnace' process is typically performed on Sapphire of a much lesser quality.  The goal is to seriously enhance or alter the color and/or clarity of the stone.  Most of these gemstones are 'cooked' over and over until the gem dealers feel it is a more desirable color and will fetch a better price in the market.  We normally do not offer gemstones of this type.  A new type heat enhancement was introduced recently, called 'bulk diffusion', which means the gem is subjected to the high temperature furnace fired method, and also under high pressure, then another ingredient is added to the mix to alter and/or change the color of the gemstone.  Typically only the color on the outside layer of the sapphire is altered with this 'bulk diffusion' method.  If the gemstone is ever scratched when worn the original color would then be visible underneath the outer layer of the gemstone.  These 'gem cooking factories' and 'bulk diffusion' factories are usually at locations in Thailand.  They use gem material that may originate in Australia, Thailand, Colombia, Kampuchea (Cambodia), Kenya and Tanzania (Africa), and Montana (USA), but they also may even use gemstones from Sri Lanka (Ceylon).  Since Asian gem suppliers (and there are many online now) are not subject to the same disclosure laws as we are here in the US, these enhancement processes are rarely disclosed to the buyer, so Buyers please Beware.  For example, you may see a premium Ceylon Padparadscha Sapphire advertised on one of those websites for what appears to be pennies on the dollar.  Be assured that stone was most likely altered by one of these Asian factories.  Some of these gem suppliers even go to great lengths to try to convince the public that there is no difference in the value of their treated gems, and the value of a natural non-treated gem, but any experienced jeweler will verify that a statement like that is totally untrue.  We specialize in obtaining top quality Ceylon Sapphires that are natural "non-treated" gems, not heated or chemically treated in any way.  The exception is Padparadscha, Orange, and some of the darker shades of Blue Sapphire, which as stated above are typically 'blow' heat enhanced to stabilize the color.      
    CARE - It is usually safe to clean Sapphire in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Sapphire jewelry.
     

    Kashmir Sapphire - Ceylon Blue Sapphire

    Kashmir SapphireKashmir SapphireKashmir Sapphire

    Although everyone has heard of the fabled Burmese Kashmir Sapphire, few have ever seen one.  We constantly see appraisals that refer to Kashmir Sapphire, but it's just about always refers to a top gem quality Deep Royal Blue Ceylon Sapphire from Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon).  Once in a great while we are able to acquire a real one, but since the mine has been depleted and these highly prized stones are old stones that are simply brought back onto the market, they don't last long.  Authentic Kashmir Sapphires carry a particularly high cost per carat and are very highly valued Collectors Gemstones.
    There are an
    array of color grades, and prices, and sometimes it's difficult to know what quality of color to expect in stones at various prices. Kashmir Blue Sapphire from Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon) also carries a particularly high cost per carat and these are very highly valued Collectors Gemstones, especially when they are in the super rich Velvety Royal Blue color.
    The Blue Sapphire color next on the popularity scale is Cornflower Blue.  The Cornflower Blue or Medium Blue color shades vary but all usually allow more light into the stone for a brighter appearance, so these stones are usually cut in the Cushion or Oval shape to make it as brilliant as possible.  Price per carat reflects the size, evenness of the color, the clarity and the brightness of the stone.
    We prefer to use the GIA Colored Stone Grading System, this is an exceptionally good method for noting the quality of color stones. In commercial grade blue sapphire, you can expect to see the hue range from violet (V) to a very strongly greenish blue (vstgB), and tones will range between 2 and through 8, but less of a saturation range. Saturation in the commercial grade is usually from 1 to 3. Gem Quality blue sapphires usually narrow in the range of hues. The hues usually range from violet (V) to a very slightly greenish blue (vslgB), and their ranges of tone can be somewhere between 3 and 7, but optimum choice is between 4 to 6. Saturation in the Gem Quality grade can be from 3 through 5, but again the optimum is 4 to 5.  In Top Gem Quality blue sapphire, the hues can range from a bluish-violet, or violetish-blue, or pure blue (bV, vB, or B). Tone should be between 5 and 7, and saturation should be 5 or 6. The examples in the diagram are bV 5/5 to 7/5, vB 5/5 to 7/5, and B 5/5 to 7/5, and B 6/6.

    Color Change Sapphire
    A color change Gemstone is one that changes from one color to another due to a change in the light source. The color change can be a subtle change in hue to a dramatic "Alexandrite like" color change.  The color change comes about in a Gemstone due to the atomic structure of the stone. The ultraviolet rays in sunlight or fluorescent light excite the atoms in a color change Gem, but artificial (incandescent) light does not.  Sapphire is one of the few Gemstones that can have a color change. The more dramatic the color change, the rarer and more expensive the stone.  All of our Color Change Sapphires are are very highly valued Collectors Gemstones.

    Green Sapphire
    These Sapphires are generally a strong, bright green color, sometimes from green to bluish green or yellowish green pleochroism. They are not the same tone of Green as the Chrome Tourmaline, Tsavorite Garnet, or Emerald, but can at first glance look very similar.  The mixed Oval and Cushion cut are the most common, but you can sometimes find square or rectangular step cuts.  Green Sapphires are not very popular for mounting in jewelry but make nice additions to any Collection.

    Pink Sapphire

    Pink SapphirePink Sapphire

    Pink Sapphires are one of the HOTTEST of the fancy color Sapphires. The 4 photos above reflect the variance in color, from Light Pink similar to the Fancy Pink Diamond color, to very Hot Pinks similar to the Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond color. Light Pinks are very very hard to find, customarily the medium pinks are the most commonly found. Light pinks have become extremely popular, since they are so close to the color of a Fancy Pink Diamond, and a few Hollywood celebrities have been seen wearing them. The Top Quality Hot Pinks are getting very rare, and as a result they have seen the largest increase in value over the past 5 years of any of the Sapphires.  Pink Sapphire carries a premium price nearing and oftentimes surpassing the price for fine Ceylon (kashmir and royal) Blue Sapphire.  Pink Sapphire is a treasured Gemstones in any Collection.  Price per carat reflects the size, evenness of the color, the clarity and the brightness of the stone.

    Padparadscha Sapphire

    Padparadscha SapphirePadparadscha Sapphire

    Padparadscha is the Sinhalese word meaning "lotus blossom".  Padparadscha is Corundum in the pastel shades of delicate Orange-Yellow-Pink.  Padparadscha can run from a more predominant Pink with nice Yellow-Orange mixed in, to the intense pastel tones of predominantly Hot Pink with Yellow-Orange mixed in, this means the Pink would be the more predominant color in the stone but the others are present and visible.  At the other end of the color spectrum Padparadscha can run from a more predominant pastel Orange with nice Pink-Yellow mixed in, to the darker tones of Orange with Pink-Yellow mixed in.  One color can be more predominant than the others, but never without the others. The 4 photos above reflect the variance in color. The AGTA Lab recently took a variety of stones that dealers suggested met the criteria of Padparadscha and scientifically defined the color range using an imaging spectrophotometer.  Unfortunately, the results of that attempt almost entirely excluded the stones produced from Tanzania’s Umba Valley.  Most dealers and gemologists feel that the Umba stones do not qualify because of their overly dark tones and strong brown (’garnet like’) component.  The spectacular “aurora” red-orange stones from Vietnam and Madagascar, even though there are no brown components in those  stones, are also excluded by the AGTA definition because of their oranges of high saturation and/or dark tones, this is mainly because Sri Lanka has traditionally never produced such colors.  In other words, when it comes to getting a gem report on Padparadscha, if it isn't from Sri Lanka and in a pastel shade, it probably isn't a true Padparadscha.  Most Padparadscha tends to have slight inclusions, especially in the rich intense tones, so if you see one that is a well cut and eye clean (or better) stone, with rich pastel blended color having all three colors evenly balanced and saturated throughout the stone, you are looking at one of the most expensive and sought after top quality Padparadscha gems available from the mines in Sri Lanka (Ceylon).  We only carry the finest natural Ceylon Padparadscha Sapphire which carries a premium price nearing and oftentimes surpasses the price for fine Ceylon (kashmir and royal) Blue Sapphire.  Padparadscha Sapphire is rarer than fine Ruby with a great investment potential!
    Buyers Beware: There is a new bulk diffusion treatment process being performed in Thailand that changes a lower quality pinkish Sapphire into the beautiful "Padparadscha" Sapphire.  AGTA and GIA gem labs, after examination of this 'bulk diffused' heat treatment process reveals that the color does not go all the way through the gem, but is only in the outer layer, so if the stone is ever scratched or recut the Padparadscha color layer would be removed and the original color would then be visible underneath the outer layer of the gemstone.  Since Asian gem suppliers (and there are many online now) are not subject to the same disclosure laws as we are here in the US, these enhancement processes are rarely disclosed to the buyer, so Buyers please Beware.  For example, you may see a premium Ceylon Padparadscha Sapphire advertised on one of those websites for what appears to be pennies on the dollar, but be assured that the stone was most likely 'bulk diffused" by one of these Asian factories.  Some of these gem suppliers even go to great lengths to try to convince the public that there is no difference in the value of their artificially colored and/or treated gem, and the value of a natural Padparadscha gem, but any experienced jeweler will verify that a statement like that is totally untrue. 

    White Sapphire

    White Sapphire

    White or "Colorless" Sapphires have a great deal of brilliance, are attractive, durable and well priced. Gem quality Colorless Sapphires are not common. In fact they are very difficult to obtain, so prices should continue to move upward in the market.  Some Colorless Sapphires have a very light tint of Blue, Yellow, or Pink but are still considered colorless.
    Colorless (white) Sapphire has been used as a substitute for Diamond for years.  We often suggest Colorless (white) Sapphire as the accent stones in jewelry pieces, and the larger gems make excellent main stones in pendants and rings, but we do not recommend it if you expect it to be as brilliant as a diamond.  White Sapphire is a natural precious gem, and as such, stands on it's own merit as a beautiful precious gemstone.  Brilliant and Clean Colorless (white) Sapphires are gaining popularity as a highly valued Collectors Gemstone.
    FAQ - What is the difference between White Sapphire and Diamond?
    First let me start by saying natural White Sapphire is a beautiful gem on it's own, but there is only one gem that looks like a Diamond, and that is a Diamond. There are several clear colorless gems that resemble a Diamond, but close examination by a trained gemologist will easily distinguish the difference. Diamond has a very high refractive index (2.417-2.419) and strong dispersion (0.044) to give it great brilliance and fire.  The refractive index for Colorless (white) Sapphire is a bit lower (1.766-1.774) and it has less dispersion (0.018) which means it cannot perform exactly like a Diamond.  A gem quality Colorless (white) Sapphire that is well cut is a very brilliant gemstone, but for the reasons I mentioned above it does not have the same fire as a Diamond.  By fire, I mean when you look at a Diamond, you see the colors of the rainbow in the faceting in natural daylight, you can even reflect the sunlight hitting a diamond and the colors of the rainbow will appear on the surfaces around you.  Whereas, with the White Sapphire, you see white light reflected in the faceting. The gem closest to a Diamond in brilliance and fire is the Colorless Zircon, this gem has a very high refractive index (1.777-1.987) and strong dispersion (0.039).  Gem quality Colorless Zircon is around the same price as gem quality White Sapphire.  There is a drawback with Zircon, however, that is it's hardness.  Diamond is very hard (10) and can cut or scratch most all other gems and glass. Sapphire is next on the hardness scale (9) and can scratch most other gems, except Diamond.  Zircon has about the same hardness as Tanzanite (7) and can only scratch a few other gems, but it cannot scratch Sapphire or Diamond.  Zircon therefore is not recommended for a Man's Ring since it is sensitive to knocks, and Men are usually hard on their jewelry.  Jewelers do use Zircon occasionally in a Ladies Ring but generally take extra precautions to protect the gem from knocks. This brings us back to the White Sapphire.  Looking at the fact it is a very brilliant and beautiful natural gem, as well as very hard and durable for jewelry, and it is colorless, makes the White Sapphire a very suitable choice if the budget does not allow for a Diamond and yet you still want a natural gemstone.

    Yellow Sapphire

    Yellow Sapphire

    Yellow Sapphires are bright gemstones that range in color from a "Light Buttery Yellow" (light fancy yellow), a "Medium Buttery Yellow" or "Light Canary Yellow" (fancy yellow), a "Rich Buttery Yellow" or "Canary Yellow" (fancy intense yellow), to a "Rich Canary Yellow" (vivid yellow). The 3 photos above reflect the variance in color, from Light Yellow similar to the Fancy Yellow Diamond color, to very Rich Canary Yellow similar to the Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond color.  Yellow Sapphire has become extremely popular, since they so closely resemble the color of a Yellow Diamond. These faceted Gems are exceptional in jewelry, since their hardness is second only to Diamond.  We carry only Top Gem quality Natural Yellow Sapphires, almost all of which are not treated.

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    STAR SAPPHIRE

    Blue Star Sapphire
    ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for AUGUST

    MOH's scale of hardness : 9 
    Specific Gravity : 3.99-4.00
    Refractive Index : 1.766-1.774
    Double Refraction : -0.018
    Sapphire sometimes displays a three-ray, six-point star.  These star sapphires are cut in a smooth domed cabochon cut to display the effect.  The star is best visible when illuminated with a single light source: it moves across the stone as the light moves. This effect, called asterism, is caused by light reflecting off tiny rutile needles, called "silk," which are oriented along the crystal faces.
    The value of star sapphires are influenced by at least these two things: 1) the intensity and attractiveness of the body color, and  2) the strength and sharpness of the star.  Of course all six legs should be straight and equally prominent.  Star sapphires rarely have the combination of a fine translucent or transparent color and a sharp prominent star, but when offered, these gems are highly valued and the most expensive.
    TREATMENTS -
    Genuine Star Sapphire is normally "not heat treated", since the heat treatment process can dissolve the rutile needles that causes the asterism to form a star.
    CARE - It is usually safe to clean Star Sapphire in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Sapphire jewelry.
    Our source for fine Star Sapphire is Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), known for producing the finest variety of Sapphire available.  Star Sapphires are highly valued Collectors Gemstones.

    NOTE - Most commonly you will see that synthetics jump out as way too perfect looking, ie: a perfect star, a super clean stone, and great color.  If you own one and aren't sure if it's genuine... Here's a few quick ways you might be able to tell the difference... First thing to look at is the bottom, if there is an "L" stamped in the stone, it's a Lindy Star and synthetic... if it does not have an "L" it passes that test, now  look for imperfections within the stone, and/or unevenness on the bottom, and/or stripes or lines of color that shows through the top... most naturals have one or more of these natural imperfections... then look at the star itself, using a flashlight... most natural stars do not have a "perfect" star, whereas the natural will most likely have 1 or more of the 6 legs not exactly the same length, or maybe not all 6 are perfectly straight... now move the flashlight around in a circle, the star should travel around and follow the light source... if the star stays stationary it is definitely synthetic. If it passes these tests, you can take it to a jeweler that has a thermal conductivity gem tester (this tester has a needle gauge, not just the diamond tester that just makes a beep), the dial should jump to the mark just before a diamond to tell you it's corundum. If it passes this test you may have a genuine Star, but don't get super excited yet, these are just simple things you can do to rule out the majority of synthetics, the only way to be sure is to send the stone to a reputable Gem Laboratory and ask for a Gem Identification Report.
    The following links are to reputable Gem Laboratories and Appraisers (in Alphabetical order).  
    Prices for gem reports may range from $100 to $1,000, depending on how much detail you want on the report. 
    AGA | AGL | AGS | AGTA | EGL | GIA | GRS | GUBELIN | GUILD | IGI | LPSL | SSEF

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    SPINEL

    SpinelBlue Spinel
    ALTERNATE BIRTHSTONE for DECEMBER (Blue)
    The 22nd ANNIVERSARY STONE

    MOH's scale of hardness : 8 
    Specific Gravity : 3.58-3.61
    Refractive Index : 1.712-1.736
    Double Refraction : None
    Spinels are genuine Gemstones with a long history. The availability of Red, Pink, Blue, Purple and Orange Spinels and all of their accompanying shades has created confusion between natural Spinel and other Gems for those unfamiliar with this natural stone.
    Spinel is a mineral group composed of Magnesium Aluminates. The addition of Chromium produces Pink or Red Spinels. Iron or Titanium additions produce Lavender or Blue Spinels. Spinel takes a brilliant polish, so it is an excellent choice for jewelry. Generally Spinel crystals are quite clear and clean of flaws. Spinel received its name from either the Greek spina meaning "little thorn" or from the Greek spinther meaning "spark" in allusion to its color.
    Spinel is not quite as hard as Corrundum (Sapphire & Ruby), but harder than Beryl (Emerald).
    TREATMENTS - Typically Spinel is not treated.
    CARE - It is usually safe to clean Spinel in an UltraSonic Cleaner, but risky to use a steamer. We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Spinel jewelry.
    Our sources for Spinel is Mogok, Burma and Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), known also for producing the finest variety of Sapphire, Garnet, Tourmaline, Taaffeite, and Ruby.  Other sources are Thailand, Afghanistan and Russia.  All colors of Spinel are highly valued collectors Gemstones.  Many of the colors are rare and scarce in large, clean stones but are less per carat than some of their better known look alikes.

    Blue Spinel

    Blue Spinel

    Top quality Blue Spinels rival the color of Blue Sapphire, or they are a vibrant cobalt Blue. Other shades include grayish Blue or slightly greenish Blue. Our stones are transparent, faceted Gems with no eye visible inclusions.  All are nicely cut, ready for your jewelry or collection.

    Red Spinel

    Red Spinel

    Red Spinel has been confused with Ruby throughout history. Modern gemologists have identified Red Spinels in the Crown Jewels of England, Russia and Iran. If you have ever been to London and seen the British Crown Jewels, you would have noticed a giant red gemstone set in the center of the Imperial State Crown. Black Princes RubyThis stone, quite possibly the most famous gem in the entire world, is the Black Princes Ruby. It is as large as a chicken egg, weighing approximately 170 carats, and measuring five centimeters in length, the Black Princes Ruby is a spectacular red, and it seems to glow with an internal fire of its own. It is so remarkable that it has become one of the worlds most cherished jewels. Guess what, the Black Princes Ruby really isn't a ruby at all.. Its actually a Red Spinel. This Black Princes Ruby is by far the worlds most famous Red Spinel, it is definitely not the only one ever possessed or coveted by kings, queens, and emperors. The Timur Ruby, also in the Crown Jewels of England, is even larger, weighing 361 carats, or more than 70 grams. It is inscribed with the names of six of its former owners. The Kremlin Museum in Moscow has another giant Red Spinel that probably belonged to the Tsar; this one weighs 414 carats.  The most dazzling collection of fine red spinels is found in the Crown Jewels of Iran. The largest one is around 500 carats, and the biggest on record. There are a handful of others weighing over 100 carats, a few with the name of Jahangir, a Mogul emperor over 350 years ago. Once you have seen a fine Red Spinel, you will easily understand why ancient royalty esteemed it as much as Ruby, and sometimes even more. Top quality Red Spinels and Rubies have superb pure red colors, and they have a fluorescence, or a glow, in natural light. Not only do the two gems have the same color and fluorescence, but they are often found together in the same mines, and rubys physical properties are very similar to spinels.  Today Red Spinel is not as abundant as Ruby, in fact it is quite difficult to find. The old mines in Afghanistan that produced so many of the giant stones in the past are worked out, and the gem gravels of Sri Lanka and Africa, which give up many beautiful pastel colored spinels, only rarely contain gems with the pure intense red color of the Black Princes Ruby.  Now only the famous mines of Mogok, Burma, hold substantial quantities of fine Red Spinels.  No one really knows how many gems remain there undiscovered, but perhaps there is still one that will rival even the Black Princes Ruby and remind us all of the days when kings and emperors held sway over vast domains and counted their wealth by the natural beauty that they owned.  Fine Red Spinels are less costly per carat  than Fine Ruby, but as with Ruby, the larger and redder the Spinel, the higher the cost per carat. Our stones are priced according to the size and the depth of color. They are transparent and eye clean.

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    TANZANITE

    Tanzanite
    THE BIRTHSTONE for DECEMBER
    Tanzanite is so hot it is the first gem added to the birthstone list since 1912
    The 24th ANNIVERSARY STONE

    MOH's scale of hardness : 6-1/2 to 7 
    Specific Gravity : 3.35
    Refractive Index : 1.691-1.700
    Double Refraction : +0.009
    Tanzanite is known for the exquisite combination of purple and blue hues, one of the loveliest of gems that was discovered in modern times. Tanzanite, discovered in Tanzania in 1967 and introduced to the world in 1968, is mined as a greenish yellowish brownish crystalline material that resembles Andalusite.  Tanzanite is basically the Blue variety of "Zoisite", and mined in Tanzania just below the majestic Mount Kilamanjaro.  Zoisite was originally used in lamp shades and other ornamental art carved items.  Tiffany's acquired rights to the trade name "Tanzanite".  Tanzanite has been adopted as a December birthstone by the American Gem Trade Association and shares its last-month-of-the-year membership with turquoise and zircon. It's affordability and distinctive beauty have earned this gem a status that rivals Kashmir Blue Sapphire.  Tanzanite can be cut to emphasize its blue or violet color component, so it can resemble the finest royal-blue sapphire or hint at amethyst purple. This color versatility has endeared this member of the zoisite family to leading jewelry designers in America, Europe and Japan.  Tanzanite has became a staple gem, and now that supplies show no sign of letting up, it was deemed as worthy of membership on the birthstone list as aquamarine and sapphire, the birthstones for March and September.  Even though all the major industry associations agreed that the public would respond positively to a dynamic new birthstone choice for December, amending the birthstone list is like amending the Constitution. There must be compelling reason and wide support. The last time the birthstone list was revised was 1912, when jewelry industry leaders met to give gems discovered since the formulation of the traditional list a shot at birthstone status. Alexandrite made the 1912 list, and now that Tanzanite has been given birthstone status it shows the degree to which this gem is revered by the trade and public alike. Top Gem Tanzanite is very beautiful and looks great in jewelry. 
    TREATMENTS -
    Virtually every Tanzanite is heated to permanently change its color from it's orange-brown state to the spectacular violet-blue color for which this precious gemstone variety is known.  Moderate heat (750-950 degrees) is applied to get the color you see today ranging from light blue/blue-violet (very inexpensive) to Top Gem colors of rich deep Intense blue/blue-violet. The typical heat treatment process is a permanent process that does not adversely affect the performance and durability of the gemstone, so there's no need to worry when you see this enhancement disclosed.
    CARE - Tanzanite should never be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner, since this cleaning method can cause irreparable damage to the stone.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Tanzanite jewelry. Since Tanzanite is of the softer variety of gems, like emerald, we recommend it be handled as though it is was as soft as opal. Also, if mounted on a Ring, since rings are susceptible to knocks and abrasion, we recommend mounting in a bezel or protected with heavy prongs as much as possible.  Tanzanite has a hardness of 6 1/2 to 7, perfect cleavage (as in topaz), but the fracture is uneven and brittle, and the gem is heat sensitive and reacts poorly to pressure, so care must be taken when mounting in jewelery.
    If you are considering Tanzanite, we stock the finest gems available in AAA and AAA+ Top Gem colors of rich deep Intense blue/blue-violet.

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    TOPAZ

    White TopazSwiss Blue TopazLondon Blue TopazImperial TopazPink Topaz
    THE BIRTHSTONE for NOVEMBER (Yellow)
    THE BIRTHSTONE for DECEMBER (Blue)
    The 4th ANNIVERSARY STONE

    MOH's scale of hardness : 8 
    Specific Gravity : 3.53-3.56
    Refractive Index : 1.610-1.638
    Double Refraction : -0.008 to -0.010
    Natural Topaz is available in several different colors: Colorless (White), Yellowish-Orange with some Peach in it (Imperial) as well as Light Blue, Yellow, Orange, and Pink.  Topaz is mainly mined in Brazil, Mexico, Sri Lanka, Africa, and China.  We offer Natural untreated Topaz in White, Imperial, Golden, and Pink shades, which are all more expensive than the treated varieties of Blue.
    Blue Topaz starts as an off color, usually bluish-gray to silvery-gray in color, and it is irradiated with gamma or electron Irradiation, in conjunction with heat to produce bold colors like the blue-green color "London Blue", the light blue color "Sky Blue", the medium blue color "Swiss Blue", and the more intense blue color "Maxi Blue".  These colors become permanent treatments to give the gem a very bright, durable, and attractive color, appropriate for any kind of jewelry.  There are several other types of treatments being used on some of the Topaz on the market to produce a variety of other colors, but most of those treatments are only on the surface of the gem and/or not permanent treatments, therefore we will not offer them.
    CARE - Jewelry featuring Topaz should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Topaz jewelry.

    Blue Topaz

    Swiss Blue TopazLondon Blue Topaz

    Blue is the most popular color used in jewelry.  Some Blue Topaz is produced in nature, however, the natural shade is generally too pale to excite any interest.  The colors like London Blue, Sky Blue, Swiss Blue, and Maxi Blue are irradiated with gamma or electron  Irradiation, in conjunction with heat.  The value increases with the intensity of color, provided it is attractive.  At first sight Blue Topaz has a resemblance to aquamarine, but, aquamarine always displays a strong pleochroism from blue to greenish blue, whereas Blue Topaz is a more definite blue or blue with a grayish tone.
    TREATMENTS - The Bright Blue shades of Topaz readily available in the market actually begins as a very light off color stone then it is treated here in the states, irradiated with gamma or electron Irradiation, to produce the vibrant Blue Shades like London Blue, Swiss Blue, and Maxi Blue. Then it is heated to stabilize the color.

    Natural Yellow Topaz
    The Yellow to Brownish Yellow is the least expensive stones of the Yellow hues.

    Natural Golden Topaz
    The Golden and peachy Orange shades are more vibrant, more desirable and more expensive.
    Natural Imperial Topaz

    Imperial Topaz
    The 23rd ANNIVERSARY STONE

    The most expensive and most desired of the Yellow tones, ranging in shades of peachy Orange to medium intense Orange to reddish Orange, with sherry Red, deep Pink, and reddish Orange hues. Imperial Topaz is found in only a few locations in the world, the small Island Country of Sri Lanka, and Ouro Preto in the state of Minas Gerais in Brazil. Gem experts still expect the Imperial Topaz sources to be completely exhausted within a few years.
    This is a very highly treasured Collectable Gemstone that will increase in value as supply is reduced.

    Natural Pink Topaz

    Pink Topaz

    Pink Topaz is usually a light to medium pink in color.  It is rare to find stones without the typical zoning of color.  The most common cut is oval or pear shape.  Pink Topaz is strongly transparent and lustrous, and can be mistaken for kunzite, morganite, and some pink tourmalines.  When it is a fairly intense color, it can be one of the most valuable of the second level of gemstones like aquamarine, etc.  Pink Topaz comes mainly from Sri Lanka and Brazil.

    Smoky Topaz
    These inexpensive stones are actually a Citrine, and should be properly called "Smoky Quartz".  Unfortunately "Smoky Topaz" is not in the more precious Topaz family at all, just a very inexpensive variety of Quartz,   It its sold by many unscrupulous persons and unknowing jewelers as "Smoky Topaz" in an attempt to create more sales in the November birthstone month.
    Although Topaz of any color is the birthstone for November, other Gemstones have also been used as a November birthstone substitute.  Yellow is the dominant color used in November birthstone jewelry.

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    TOURMALINE

    Green TourmalineIndicolite TourmalineParaiba TourmalinePink TourmalineRubellite Tourmaline
    THE BIRTHSTONE for MAY (Green)
    THE BIRTHSTONE for JULY (Red)
    THE BIRTHSTONE for OCTOBER (Pink)
    The 8th ANNIVERSARY STONE

    MOH's scale of hardness : 7 to 7-1/2 
    Specific Gravity : 3.02-3.26
    Refractive Index : 1.616-1.652
    Double Refraction : -0.014 to -0.044
    Tourmaline is a large family of Gemstones with more than 100 hues available.  Its name comes from the
    Sinhalese turmali, meaning mixed Gemstones due to the tendency to confuse Tourmalines with other Gems.
    Tourmaline from Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon) was first introduced to the Europeans in the late 1600's or early 1700's by Dutch traders. Our source for Tourmaline is Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), known for producing the finest variety of Tourmaline.
    Tourmaline crystals are often cracked and flawed, especially in the Red, Pink and Bi-colors. Clean stones of 10 Carats or more in these colors command a premium price. The Green and Blue colors are generally very clean. The vivid colors like Bubble Gum Pink in Tourmaline is Heat or Cobalt Irradiation treated to enhance and stabilize the color.
    CARE - Tourmaline is a very good choice for jewelry but it should be stored in a separate compartment or in a jewelry bag to prevent scratching by harder Gemstones.  Jewelry featuring Tourmaline should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Tourmaline.

    Chrome Tourmaline

    Chrome Tourmaline

    Chrome Tourmaline is a rare variety of Green Tourmaline that is found only in the Eastern African countries of Kenya, Zambia, Namibia and Tanzania. The finest Chromes rival the top color of Emerald and Tsavorite Garnet and offers a more durable stone for jewelry.  Chrome Tourmaline's vivid Green color is determined by the presence of Chromium or Vanadium oxides.  Chrome Tourmaline was first mined in Tanzania in the 1960's.  One of the largest crystal chambers was uncovered by accident in Namibia when an explosives expert shot off excess dynamite.  Gem quality Chromes are extremely difficult to locate.  Stones over 3 Carats are considered very rare in this Gem.  All of our stones are well faceted and eye clean.  A very rare Gem with a great investment potential!

     

    Green Tourmaline

    Green Tourmaline

    Green Tourmaline is the most recognized of the Tourmaline colors.  Green Tourmalines are typically eye clean stones. Most are cut in the rectangular shapes.  Shades range from a pastel Green to a deep, vibrant Green.

    Indicolite Tourmaline

    Indicolite Tourmaline

    Indicolite is the proper name for Blue Tourmaline.  One of the finest  Indicolite colors are in the medium dark Blue range, close to the color of kashmir Blue Sapphire.  Recently another Indicolite find in the Mulungu mine, and Alto dos Quintos mine, in Rio Grande do Norte State, Brazil, have produced limited quantities of various shades of turquoise blue-green material, similar to the color of Paraiba (below), but not as vivid a color due to a lower copper content.  These  turquoise blue-green colors demand a higher premium than some of the Blue Indicolite, but should not as high as Paraiba, which only comes from the Paraiba mines.  Our source for fine Indicolite Tourmaline is Brazil, and Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), both are known for producing the finest varieties of Tourmaline.  Other sources for Indicolite are Madagascar, California and Maine.
    Indicolite is typically a clean Gemstone, seldom with eye visible inclusions and range in shades of medium light to medium dark Blue.   Indicolite Tourmaline is a highly valued Collectors Gemstone.

    Paraiba  Tourmaline

    Paraiba Tourmaline

    "Paraiba" Tourmaline is another of the world's most unusual Gemstones. At first it was called "Electric" then "NEON."  This new gemstone was discovered in Brazil in 1982.  It's brilliant blue and green are more vivid than any ever seen before. The term "NEON" accurately describes the tone of color.  It is so vivid it will shock you with its beauty. You can see this stone from across the room!  These vivid turquoises, electric blues, rich twilight blues, and neon greens haven't been seen with any consistency in any other gemstone variety.  The only Tourmaline in the world that contains Copper, but a recent study by the German Foundation for Gemstone Research also discovered a surprisingly high gold content, 8.6 parts per million, If it wasn't for the fact they were so beautiful, they could have been in danger of being crushed for the gold salvage!  This gem was found only in one "football field" size spot in the world, its location is near a village called São José da Batalha, in northeastern Brazil, in the state of Paraiba.  Production is sporadic and does not keep up with the strong market demand.  The mine shafts are hand-excavated tunnels up to 60 meters deep and the paraiba tourmaline is found only in very thin veins.  This means the supply will always be limited and paraiba always be rare and expensive.  Don't be surprised to see retail prices of over $20,000 per carat for the fine specimens, but even that is very little when you realize how rare these gemstones are. Diamonds are quite common in comparison.  The price per carat reflects the size, clarity, color and the intensity of the particular shade.  Neon Paraiba Tourmaline is an attractive, highly desirable Gemstone which should be purchased when you can.  The most desired colors have been the shades of clear bright greenish Blue or bluish Green; pure Green; or the medium intense Blue.  Naturally variations of tones create exciting "Neons." Stones are usually transparent with minimal inclusions. This rare Gemstone is a definite winner! 

    Pink Tourmaline

    Pink Tourmaline

    Pink Tourmaline has become a favorite for mounting because it is available in so many shades, ranging from pure light Pink to intense "HOT" Pink to orangy-Pink and Fuchsia Pink.  Gemologists think that natural irradiation produces the Pink, Red and Violet colors in Tourmaline.  To enhance the color to get the very HOT Pinks, you can expect it to be Cobalt treated.  The darker reddish colors tend to have more natural inclusions than the other Tourmaline colors because they are formed near the center of the crystal pocket and receive more stress and pressure during formation.
    We carry the best gem quality Tourmaline available on the market.  Prices per carat vary with the size, color and clarity of the stone. Pink Tourmaline is a highly valued Collectors Gemstone.

    Rubellite Tourmaline

    Rubellite Tourmaline

    Called Rubellite because the deepest shades appear to be Ruby-like RED.  Like all tourmalines, it has strong pleochroism.  Eye clean Rubellite is one of the most expensive of the Tourmalines since most Rubellite has visible inclusions. Clean Rubellite is very rare, so if you see a super clean stone it's probably a Pink Tourmaline or a Rubellite Garnet.  Rubellite's intense RED color makes it a beautiful Gem for mounting.  Colors range in Rubellite from Fuchsia to maroon Red to Red. The price of Rubellite goes up dramatically as the size increases or the Red deepens in intensity.  There have been no new stocks of clean Rubellite Tourmaline on the market for several years.  Expect it to continue to move upward in price.

    Watermelon Tourmaline
    Sometimes the mineral deposit in the Tourmaline crystal will form a color band along its length or width which will then be appropriately called Bi-color, Tri-color or Watermelon if the colors are Green and Red with a White separation. The vast majority of the stones are obscure or heavily included. Clean Gems are much more expensive.
    We offer some of the finest, cleanest Watermelon Tourmalines available in the Gem market.  Definitely one-of-a-kind Gems.  Watermelon Tourmaline is a highly valued Collectors Gemstone.

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    ZIRCON

    Green ZirconOrange ZirconYellow ZirconRed ZirconBlue Zircon
    THE BIRTHSTONE for DECEMBER

    MOH's scale of hardness : 6-1/2 to 7-1/2 
    Specific Gravity : 3.90-4.71
    Refractive Index : 1.777-1.987
    Double Refraction : +0.059 (except green)
    Zircons are natural Gemstones available in an array of colors.
    Zircon's name comes from the Arabic zargoon, meaning vermilion.  Natural Zircons are one of the few Gemstones with dispersion or fire.  Zircon approaches Diamond in fire, so the Colorless Zircon has been a successful natural substitute for Diamond.  Our Zircon is not Heat or chemically treated unless specified.
    Our source for Zircon is Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon), known for producing some of the finest variety of Zircon, Sapphire, Garnet, Tourmaline, Taaffeite, and Ruby.  Other sources are Myanmar, Thailand and Vietnam.
    Colorless, Blue, Green, Golden, Red, Rose and Fancy colors provide an ample choice of colors, the rarest of which is colorless followed by blue and red Zircon in priority of rareness.
    Zircons are beautiful, natural Gemstones which are currently under priced in the Gem markets.
    Zircon is a beautiful and affordable addition to any Gemstone Collection.
    CARE - Zircon is a very good choice for jewelry but it should be stored in a separate compartment or in a jewelry bag to prevent scratching by harder Gemstones.  Jewelry featuring Zircon should not be cleaned in an ultrasonic or steam cleaner.  We recommend
    Ionic Cleaners and/or warm, soapy water and a soft brush as the best way to clean Zircon.

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    .
  • Gem Cuts
  • Types of Cuts for Gemstones
    There is no general rule which can be applied to the various cuts. However, three groups or types of cut can be named: Faceted cut, plain cut, and mixed cut.
    The faceted cut is practically applied only to transparent stones. The number of small even facets gives the gem higher luster and often a better play of color. Most facet cuts are built on two basic types, the brilliant cut and the trap or emerald cut. The plain cut can be leveled en cabochon (domed). This is suitable for agates and other opaque stones. In mixed cuts, the upper part is level and the lower part is faceted, or vice versa.
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    Brilliant-Full cut or Round-Brilliant cut  This cut has been specially developed for the diamond. The word "brilliant" alone refers to a diamond, whereas, in the case of other gems, the mineral name should be given.. i.e... Round brilliant-cut sapphire. This cut has at least 32 facets, plus the table on the upper part, and 24 facets on the lower part. When there are less, it is called a "Round" cut".
    Eight cut  This cut is also usually for the diamond, normally diamonds that are too small for a full cut. This cut has 8 facets on the upper and lower parts as well as the table on the upper.
    Rose Cut and Half Dutch Rose  Are facet cuts without a table or pavilion that vary in the number and positioning of facets.  These are old cuts not normally used today since they do not produce much brilliance.
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    Step Cut  A simple type of facet cut, specially used for colored stones, but also occasionally for diamonds.  Several facets are cut parallel to the edges, the facets becoming steeper towards the girdle. The lower part usually has more facets than the upper part. A step cut can be used in combination with other cuts i.e. Oval-Step cut or Square-Step cut, etc.
    Scissor Cut  A type of step cut.  The facets are divided into four sub-facets by the "scissors", some have truncated corners while others are cut with square corners.
    Ceylon cut, Old Mine cut, Antique cut, or Cushion Cut  is most often referred to as the "Cushion
    cut" and it can vary in shape from ovalish/squarish to ovalish/rectangularish.  It is a primary cut used on
    ruby and sapphire that is cut in Ceylon (Sri Lanka). This very popular cut has numerous facets in both
    upper and lower parts and is normally a very brilliant cut.  This cut allows the cutter to obtain maximum
    weight so it is not always symmetrical.  Now we are seeing other gems, even semi-precious gems, being cut with the face symmetry similar to the Cushion cut, and called a Cushion cut, however the faceting is not the same as that of Ceylon and Burma cut gemstones.
    Emerald Cut  A step cut with an octagon shape, especially used for emerald, but also popular for longer-shaped diamonds and other colored stones.  Most have truncated corners while others can have square corners.

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    Antique cuts are very similar to the Ceylon cut and Cushion cut in the face shape, being ovalish/squarish, and the second being more ovalish/rectangularish.  The Antique cut is also a primary cut used on ruby and sapphire that is cut in Ceylon (Sri Lanka). This very popular cut varies in the type of facets used in both upper and lower parts like the Ceylon cut, Old Mine cut, Antique cut, or Cushion Cut.  The pavilion is normally a mixed cut to create as brilliant a stone as possible, except the cut is normally a shallower cut than the typical Cushion cut.  This cut allows the cutter to obtain maximum weight with a big face, and like the Cushion it is not always symmetrical.
    Oval cut is a very popular cut has numerous facets in both upper and lower parts and is normally a very brilliant cut.  It's face shape is always oval.  Some are cut elongated oval but this cut is always symmetrical. To allow the cutter to obtain maximum weight, the pavilion can be a step or mixed type facet to create as brilliant a stone as possible from the particular crystal, so it can vary from deep to a shallower cut yet still be called Oval since the face is still Oval and symmetrical.
    Bead cut  This is a Spherical cut that is totally faceted...

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    Other Cuts
    Various other types of cuts show an abundance of forms available. Not all gems are cut to these forms as a general rule so these cuts are only provided as a guide to understanding them.
    Square cut,  Baguette cut (long rectangle), Octagon cut, French cut (base and table square, triangular facets)...

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    Pear cut,  Navette or Marquise cut (pointed elliptical), Pendeloque or Drop cut (pear-shaped), Briolette cut (pear-shaped with crossed faceted bands)...
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    Table Cut  The simplest type of step cut which is very flat with a large table.   It is often used for seals or rings for men i.e.. onyx with a class logo, etc.
    Cabochon cuts  The main representative of the plain cut.  The upper part is domed and the lower part level, or slightly domed.  The name Cabochon means "French-nail" because of its rounded shape
    Mixed cuts  The upper part can be cabochon domed and the lower part faceted, or the reverse...

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    Barrel cut or Olive cut (small barrel-shaped), Trapezoid cut, Heart-shaped cut, Escutcheon-shaped cut, and many many other Fantasy cuts not pictured like Freeform, Trillion, Triangle, Princess, Radiant, Star, Modified Scissors, Spherical, Hexagon, Coats of Arms, and many others.
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